Happy Shooting!! Paul.
"We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.
Thanks Dan.
In the meantime, I managed to find my old sales thread for a Mk1 action which includes close ups of the trigger assembly, cocked and uncocked.
See here.
It shows a mod I made to improve the trigger function (I added the little horizontal spring and guide on the left), but I think it also shows the missing 4mm to which you refer, I believe. The upper sear on this gun is a "T" shape, whereas on later guns it is an "L" shape. Interestingly enough, Chambers don't show this "T" shaped sear on their drawings.
P.S. Just checked on Knibbs' site and they do show the "T" shaped sear on the Mk1!!! See here.
It looks like Chambers have got this wrong.
Last edited by Airsporter1st; 24-09-2016 at 06:10 PM.
Happy Shooting!! Paul.
"We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.
Thanks for this! Indeed this is exactly the problem I am trying to explain! Chambers have deffinately got it wrong and I must call them to see wha the can do about it. My original sear that I'm talking about is the same t shape style as you say in your action that you sold.
Anyhow I did manage to fix this problem by making a longer trigger sear to reach the new top sear which was clearly wrong and 4 mm short if not a little more.
The trigger sear I have just made is the small one that sits on the trigger to give the two stage feel along with contacting the top sear that lock onto the piston rod.
I'm very pleased as its has worked out great. I have taken photos but anoyingly my new phone doesn't have photoshop installed so I shall ask a friend to upliad them hopefully shortly?
Thanks Harry.
The top left sear is the replacement chambers sent me ( not correct )
Top right is the original sear
Bottom right is the trigger lower sear that contacts the top sear and connects to the trigger and acts as a two stage feel. This was obviously not reaching the new sear from chambers so I desided to make a longer one from stainless ( bottom left ) which has worked a treat!
All the best
Daniel
can you temper stainless with very low iron content? Not sure myself without checking up, and I am an engineer.
Stainless is tougher anyway due to nickel/chrome content but has a lower shear strength, might be ok as it is?
I would have thought that the originals should be high carbon steel.tool steel or similar would be ok as well. Let us know howyou get on.
BASC
Yes Exactly what i decided too was to not bother trying to temper it as I ran a magnet over it and there was very little iron so knowing how tough this spercific sheet of stainless is, as im currently making triggers which is very difficult to work with as its so very hard. Becuse of this i decided to use as is.
And also which is why i decided to make the lower trigger sear not the upper becuase the upper is the one taking all the preasure from the piston rod tip wearas the lower sear i decided to make is mearly a releases which allows the piston force from the spring to release itself from the top sear.
Time will tell but im very confident it will be fine, but i would not have waisted any time using it for the top sear even though im pretty sure it would be fine too but dont do anything unless im totally confident.
Atb
Daniel
ive a mk2 triger block it ha part of the gaurd missing but tiger functions fine make me a offer if any good thanks coddy