Has anybody tried this load in a ROA 25gn Swiss2 + 15gn Sainsbury's best semolina. Will I have a problem with this load.
Anschutz 1913. .22lr - Big Nikko. TX200.177 Mk3 Ultimate
Taurus 357 LBR. Taurus .22 LBR BSA .22 RF Martini International Mk3.
Marlin 357 original JM.
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
Seems perfectly fine to me. As mentioned, provided you can ram the ball below the face of the cylinder, then there is no BP load that would be problematic in a revolver provided there is sufficient to get the ball out of the barrel.
True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
TANSTAAFL
ROA is a very strong gun. One of mine likes 30 grns of TS2 and the other prefers 20 grns. 25 grns Swiss is probably giving the same ish
power as my 30 grns of TS2. As already said the Ruger can cope easily with what ever b/p you can handle yourself. For me any thing
above 30 gets uncomfortable. Tim
Sorry for the silly question guys/girls
Can I do the same (20 odd grains) of triple7 in my navy ams 44?
Wads as fillers are relatively expensive, but if you insist you should choose a wad nominal .454" * and thick enough that when the ball or bullet is seated with moderate to firm ramming pressure it sits just below the face of the cylinder - as far forwards as possible while allowing the cylinder to rotate. For a ball that would be quite a thick wad. Sainsbury's semolina is much cheaper as a filler and allows adjustment of the BP charge without needing to procure lots of different thickness wads.
* (ROA is nominally .454" at the chamber mouth and a .457" ball gets shaved during ramming for a good fit - a .454 ball will also be OK but most find better accuracy with the .457 or even .460 ball)
The need to also use lube is somewhat controversial. MLAIC and MLAGB rules mandate the use of some kind of grease over the ball/bullet, allegedly to reduce the chances of a chain fire. It's function in the prevention of chain fire is disputed by many. Note that nearly all bullets, both modern and those intended for use with nitro, have some provision for lubrication by the addition of one or more cannelures, and in BP rifles and nitro cartridges, this cannot be for the prevention of chain fire. Lube also has the effect of reducing friction between the barrel and projectile, and in BP guns greatly reduces the build up of fouling residue in the bore. A lubed wad might serve the latter two purposes, but does not satisfy MLAIC or MLAGB, however this might not be important to you. Various concoctions are in regular use as a lube, assorted brands and types of mineral grease, the hallowed beeswax and tallow mixture, and many others, or simply E45 cream. Lube for a wad probably needs to be relatively thin in consistency to allow some absorption into the wad and here the world is your oyster - many favour wintergreen oil but I don't use wads so have nothing to offer on this matter.
True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
TANSTAAFL
So many variables and personal choices. I use a 7cc scoop and semolina as a filler, just enough to bring the ball
upto the neck of the chamber. I also smear wonderlube over the ball. Iv used water pump grease, tallow/beas wax
mix and E45 in the past as well as no lube but always seam to return to Wonderlube. It keeps the fouling soft and
aids cleaning no end especially as i may not clean my gun till the next day. I can shoot as many shots as i like and
i never have a fouling problem even after prolonged use. Semolina is so cheep why would you spend good money on
wads, also wads litter the range where as semolina just vanishes, plus it smells nice.:-) Tim