HW57 galling?

[Geoff555]

Hello chaps this is just a precautionary question, please, I have just got a HW57 and I was wondering if I should keep a check on it for galling. Does it. Anything else I should know?
Thank you.
A T B .
Geoff.

[tinbum]

Nope, its the bastard lovechild of the 77 and 99, but lighter than one and better than the other.

[TonyL]

It's something that I've often wondered about, too.

After all, it has the articulated cocking lever.

One of the HWs yet to be added to my Hermann Cabinet.

[Barryg]

It's something that I've often wondered about, too.

After all, it has the articulated cocking lever.

One of the HWs yet to be added to my Hermann Cabinet.

Some articulated cocking levers work ok, the old haenel that the lgv seems to have copied works ok

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rc...95922081963363
and the Diana 350 mag seems to have no faults with its articulated cocking lever

[Geoff555]

Thanks chaps, I have now to use something light because being an old f**t then the shoulder joints are worn badly. Bench rest only now. Its snappy and kicks like a mule.
Will be contacting Mr TB later for a kit.

Cheers.
Geoff.

[derekj]

My Theoben 90 has a articulated cocking lever, never had any issues apart from it being irritatingly accurate

[robs5230]

Hello chaps this is just a precautionary question, please, I have just got a HW57 and I was wondering if I should keep a check on it for galling. Does it. Anything else I should know?
Thank you.
A T B .
Geoff.

YES it does. I picked up a secondhand 57 that has galled the cylinder quite badly. This 57 I have is a few years old and has a roller on the cocking arm. Its taken a fair bit of effort to polish the damage out and make sure its operating well but now its running very nice. If its new I'd consider very regular checks to make sure you keep on top of it. The spring fitted in my 57 was far too long and bent. It now has a chopped 77 spring and TBT delrin guides along with a new piston seal (lightly sized) as the old one had been burning lube and the seal had gone brittle.
Mine is now shooting a gnats under 11 with express and shooting 8mm groups at 25 yards so I can confirm they are accurate too despite the odd pop up breech.
I'd certainly get the factory lube out ASAP .
The cycle on mine is quick and has a crack at the muzzle but far from how it was when i picked it up. Cocking is silent and smooth.
Make sure the breech operates smoothly and has some moly on the post.

[Geoff555]

Hello Robs thank you I will strip it and fit a TB kit and keep a check on it.
Cheers.
Geoff.

[ElmerFudd.177]

Yes... i agree with robs5230.

There is a wheel on the cocking arm that irratatingly gets a flat spot if it isnt polished and lubed correctly. Also agree that the pop up breech needs a polish and grease up. Dont forget there are 2 breech seals too that sometimes suffer.

[Geoff555]

Hello, a bit of an update. Now stripped and have found the following, cocking link has 2 pivots both were tight to pivot, the slot in the piston was roughly finished with lumps and craters. There are scores on the pop up breach. Chunk out of the piston seal.
Everything was bone dry with no sign of Any lubrication.
Cant wait for the Tinbum kit to arrive.
Must say that Nick's service was exceptional.
Cheers.
Geoff.

[robs5230]

Hello, a bit of an update. Now stripped and have found the following, cocking link has 2 pivots both were tight to pivot, the slot in the piston was roughly finished with lumps and craters. There are scores on the pop up breach. Chunk out of the piston seal.
Everything was bone dry with no sign of Any lubrication.
Cant wait for the Tinbum kit to arrive.
Must say that Nick's service was exceptional.
Cheers.
Geoff.

Time for a good bit of polishing then before you install the delrin kit. Make sure the slot is smooth both inside and outside. I use wet and dry wrapped round a dowel to do the inside including the cutouts at the rear or the cylinder. It will also prevent piston seal from being nicked on reassembly. Make sure all particles are out before reassembly. Lube the joints on the arm and free up if too tight. Get some moly (i use moly paste from TBT) on the area where the arm will ride on the cylinder. Polish lightly any scores on the pop up breech. Best take the breech out, its easy. Get some moly on the post of the breech and on the bottom where the arm rides to pop it up. Scores may be shaved pellets if the breech was tight to close and unlubed. Lastly, check the "ears" on the cocking shoe and make sure there are no rough edges on the top that will catch on the underside of the cylinder when it rides in the cocking slot. Good luck

[Geoff555]

Hello Robs and all, advice to be followed. Thank you. Now to the roller what on earth does it do, I thought that it might raise the cocking arm so keeping it clear of the cylinder But it is not actually proud of the cocking arm, it is proud of the arm on the outside edge though.
I did find 2 very sharp ridges accross the face of the arm about 1/2" from the piston end, removed.
Insidentally 2 of the square blocks were a B to remove, took a 2 lb. hammer and punch as they were peened in.
Stand by I will probably be back!!
Cheers.
Geoff.
By the way, this is a new gun.

[Geoff555]

Hi, it's me being impatient I guess but does anyone know about the roller in the cocking link, mine does not ride on the cylinder as it is not proud of the linkage on the cylinder side, it Is proud on the outside of the linkage. Can't really see what it does.
Have ordered a linkage from Chambers for comparison.
Have an idea about fitting a sealed minature ball race instead of the roller, Your comments invited and valued.
Thank you gentlemen.
Cheers.
Geoff.

[Geoff555]

Hello all, the replacement arm/link arrived from chambers and was the same as the one fitted to the gun. So I decided that I could experiment and if I made a mess could just replace the original link.
After 50 pellets then there was a rub mark on the cylinder 3/4” long 1/2” from the piston end of the cocking slot in the cylinder.
The arm/link was being held off the cylinder by nearly 1/8”.**
The roller could not be in contact with the cylinder because .
1. It was not proud of the link and the face of the roller is concave anyway.
2. The arm/link was being held off the cylinder, at the end ( closest to the cocking slot ) it was in contact with the cylinder but at the roller end it was off the cylinder by 1/8”. **

Assumptions are dangerous but I assume that the roller should run on the cylinder?

I removed approx 3/32” from the face of the arm/link so that the roller was proud and 'capable' of running on the cylinder. But the arm/link was being still held off the cylinder.
Bother or words to that effect.
Why, well the wings on the end of the link were at such an angle that they were holding the link off the cylinder. Careful use of a dremel with a fine cutting disc altered the angle and the arm/link sat down nicely with the roller on the cylinder and clearance all the way between the link and cylinder. I hate to think of the stress on the 'wings' and the cylinder slot.

All done, NO, bother double bother, when fitted to the stock then there was an audible 'click' on cocking, freeing off the pivots and sitting the link down created a large gap between the link and a plastic ( PTFE, Delrin? ) button set into the stock, the click was the link 'snapping' into position up against the cylinder.
Drilled hole in buttons rear face and fitted a spring, result!

The cocking is now silky smooth and a lot easier.
A remark from a chap at the range before it was sorted was. “ Blimey that has a kick”.

A Tinbum kit has transformed it into an gentle nudge and it is now a pleasure to use. Dare I say it, as it should have been. I must say it has proved interesting.
Thanks for reading.
ATB.
Geoff.