I will email you a copy of the original sear blueprint.
I'm just bringing an old service back to life and have replaced spring and breach seal and done the usual cleaning and lubing.
Unfortunately the sear will no longer hold and its clearly not a question of a few passes with a stone.
Could anyone please tell me what profile I should be aiming for and is the sear mild steel/case hardened or is the whole sear a hardened part?
Thanks Steve.
I will email you a copy of the original sear blueprint.
And me please if you don't mind
If I made one would use gauge plate nearest thickness to the required item, then harden and quench in a light oil or cooking oil and afterwards temper to a straw colour. You could case harden ordinary steel but be careful not stone through the hard skin at a later stage.
Baz
Last edited by Benelli B76; 12-06-2017 at 08:20 PM.
BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD
Be careful when changing sears, if they do not both hold the piston in the same position, with the same pressure then when the top sear is activated and if the piston moves forward it may have enough stored energy to overcome the trigger sear!!!!!!![ the two sears need to be same physical condition, with the piston part of the sear also having been re profiled] I have a couple of holes in may garage door when a trigger sear did not hold when the barrel was closed. I think that this is the reason why some Mk 2s have had their top sear removed! Best of luck with your mod! Regards Daveh
[I think that this is the reason why the BSA with the double sear was not a success and dropped like a hot potato by BSA]
If you dont do it today, you might not be able to do it tomorrow!
These may be of interest. Can do a tracing if need be.
Often think of "Stellite" facing for this sort of repair. Don't know if it's even still available.
Used to tip valve stems of Ford side valve engines when we were alive.