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Thread: Remington Express - Titan #1 Spring Length

  1. #1
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    Remington Express - Titan #1 Spring Length

    Last year tuned my RE .177 - standard clean/polish, new seals and new guide/top-hat. I retained the existing spring but collapsed/polished both ends at it had just been chopped and unfinished. After bedding in, can only get power to around 10 lbs/ft and that’s with around 30 mm pre-load – which seems too much pre-load.

    Therefore, decided to replace the original spring as it is quite short - after collapsing it is 200 mm. The Titan #1 is the same ID/OD and similar gauge but is 280 mm long.

    Before starting a potentially lengthy session of cut/collapse trial and error, I wondered if anyone knows the approximate suitable length for this spring & rifle? I know it depends on lots of factors and will need fine tuning but a general guide for cutting length would be helpful.

  2. #2
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    If it helps, I will share with you an Excel spreadsheet I wrote a while back, to help decide spring length. If you know the power you have with a given spring length (assuming it's too great) then it will forecast how much to take off in order to reach your desired power level. But you do need a start point. And you'll need Excel on your PC to run it.
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  3. #3
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    Thanks that would be helpful!

    That will mean that I can cut, test & then have a far better idea of how much to chop off next.

    PM sent.

  4. #4
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    It's taken me an unbelievably long time to get round to this but thought I'd provide some feedback as I got a result first time.

    I chopped off approx 40 mm (5 coils) of a Titan #1 and without any power bands rifle is averaging 11.3 pounds sq ft. This suits me fine.

    NB My Remington Express is .177 and has a custom guide and top hat so it might be different for the standard / factory set-up. I'll re-chrono once all's bedded in.

  5. #5
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    A very underrated rifle, next thing to do is convert to a hw trigger, makes a massive difference. Mines in .177 shooting at 11.7fpe, very little recoil and smooth.

  6. #6
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    The factory spring is very weak and if it has been cut down to much even by adding pre load spacers you have a job to get power out of them. I often get new Expresses doing 10.5 and under and i up rate them, as well as the AR1 kits i now do a stage one kit for these rifles that is not so expensive.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by peddy View Post
    A very underrated rifle, next thing to do is convert to a hw trigger, makes a massive difference. Mines in .177 shooting at 11.7fpe, very little recoil and smooth.
    Is there much involved in switching to a HW trigger?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&SP View Post
    Is there much involved in switching to a HW trigger?
    Not difficult if you have a power drill and a file. There's info online on how to do it. Takes 15mins and makes big difference

  9. #9
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    Or fit the brass set back trigger blade that has an adjustable first stage improved let off.
    .22 Venom Mach 1 (FAC) 6-25x56 Millett.
    .22 Venom Mach 2 Thumbhole 6.5-20x40 Leupold EFR.
    .22 Venom Mach 2 Sporter 4-12x40 Leupold.
    .177 Venom Vantage 4-16x50.
    .177 Venom Daystate 8-32x56 AGS.
    .22 Venom Datstate 4-16x56 AGS.
    .22 Webley Venom FX2000 6-18x40 Busnel Legend.
    .177 Titan MPT by Steve Pope 6-24x40 Tasco.
    .177 Pro-Sport 4-16x50.
    .22 Webley FX2000 3-9x33 Leupold EFR.
    .177 Logan Solo 4-16x50.
    .22 HW90 (spring powered) 4-16x50
    .22 Gamo Stutzen.
    .177 Walther lever action.

  10. #10
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    tinbum is offline Killer Vampire Lesbians on scooters
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    The RE is a Diana 31/34 clone so I use the genuine Diana springs. They are a potential powerhouse, so being able to shorten the spring is vital.
    Better to admit you walked through the wrong door than spend your life in the wrong room

  11. #11
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    UPDATE

    Post installing new spring, the RE was averaging 11.3 pounds sq ft without any power bands. Since 'running it in' (100 pellets or so), power has dropped to 10.6. I thought that they normally increased once bedded in. Looks like yet another strip to add some washers. It has new breech and piston washers as well as new HDPE sleeve, new guide/TH so all should be OK. Anyway, the previously reported 5 coils chop might not be be right!

    The other thing that's annoying is that I cannot get a grouping of less than 1" at 10 yards (hand rested on bag). I've cleaned the barrel, checked that everything is tight etc. By comparison, in the same session / set-up (was checking scopes) my HW97 was doing under 1 cm groups. This is the reason that I re-checked the power - to check it's consistent, which it is. Wondering if I need to re-crown?

    It's been fun fiddling with this rifle. I bought it for a song so even with the small amount spent on it, it's still cheap. But I do wish I could now stop 'fixing' and start shooting!

  12. #12
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    I remember replacing the spring in my friends BSA Meteor with an ox spring back in the 90s and didn't bother shortening an obviously too-long spring. Once we had wrestled it in, the gun sounded like it was going to explode while shooting lead out at a ridiculous fps rate. Not the sort of thing we would do these days!

  13. #13
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    I'm surprised anyone has problems with this rifle being underpowered.
    Mine came new, warranted as sub 12 fpe, but was 13 fpe in standard trim.
    The dimensions of the mechanicals confirm it is capable of much more
    As I was putting in a tune kit anyway, I just took it as a good sign that it was put together ok.
    One area that might make a little difference to power and consistency is the breach seal.
    Its often a poor fit in that it doesn't stand proud enough to make a good & consistent seal.
    The shim that sits under breach seal from a Diana model 34 works, though I have another rifle with the same breach type and made one that fits just as well.
    A standard 2.5mm c/s x 8.5mm ID "O" ring works fine as a replacement breach seal
    The "O" ring is then pennies to replace and as often as you like.
    The piston seal can be replaced with any 28mm Diana type 28mm seal, so you have a choice from Diana, Vortex, Customairseals, Maccari Large Apex etc.
    I chopped the barrel to 13 inches and added a V-Mach slip-on silencer (expensive but very nice).
    I re-crowned with a conical grindstone in a hand drill.
    The accuracy with JSB Exact 5.52 is outstanding.
    The tune kit is by Welshwilly which includes a top-hat, guide & spring and power bands.
    I assume the spring is a Titan, but as to which one, I dunno.
    There is very little preload to easily achieve 11+fpe
    Lastly, Venoman off of here does a very nice setback trigger in brass which has twin adjustment screws and for sensible money.
    You can get away with removing 2 of the 3 washers under the trigger sear engagement to get the standard trigger to a lighter feel if you don't want to spend on an aftermarket trigger blade. However, the Venoman blade is very nice

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveiep View Post
    I'm surprised anyone has problems with this rifle being underpowered.
    Mine came new, warranted as sub 12 fpe, but was 13 fpe in standard trim.
    The dimensions of the mechanicals confirm it is capable of much more
    As I was putting in a tune kit anyway, I just took it as a good sign that it was put together ok.
    One area that might make a little difference to power and consistency is the breach seal.
    Its often a poor fit in that it doesn't stand proud enough to make a good & consistent seal.
    The shim that sits under breach seal from a Diana model 34 works, though I have another rifle with the same breach type and made one that fits just as well.
    A standard 2.5mm c/s x 8.5mm ID "O" ring works fine as a replacement breach seal
    The "O" ring is then pennies to replace and as often as you like.
    The piston seal can be replaced with any 28mm Diana type 28mm seal, so you have a choice from Diana, Vortex, Customairseals, Maccari Large Apex etc.
    I chopped the barrel to 13 inches and added a V-Mach slip-on silencer (expensive but very nice).
    I re-crowned with a conical grindstone in a hand drill.
    The accuracy with JSB Exact 5.52 is outstanding.
    The tune kit is by Welshwilly which includes a top-hat, guide & spring and power bands.
    I assume the spring is a Titan, but as to which one, I dunno.
    There is very little preload to easily achieve 11+fpe
    Lastly, Venoman off of here does a very nice setback trigger in brass which has twin adjustment screws and for sensible money.
    You can get away with removing 2 of the 3 washers under the trigger sear engagement to get the standard trigger to a lighter feel if you don't want to spend on an aftermarket trigger blade. However, the Venoman blade is very nice
    Thanks for the feedback.

    I have already added a shim & new seal to the breech + it is currently showing very consistant power (albeit lower that 100 pellets ago). Also, have replace piston seal and re-sized, and replaced guide/TH. So not sure why power dropped so much since?

    Poor grouping is also a puzzle as power is consistant and using JSB Exacts. Not sure if it's pellet fussy or needs a re-crown? Have also adusted/polished trigger so it's not too bad.

    I am considering the AR1 trigger &maybe silencer but it's pointless until the rifle is sorted.

  15. #15
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    My .177 RE was more accurate and delivered higher fpe with h&n trophy and rws superfields 4.51. Jsb wasn't the best by far.

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