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Thread: HW35E stock re-finishing advice

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    Out of interest how do you post photos on this site?
    Presently you have to post your pictures with a hosting site such as Photobucket, Imageshack or Imagur, etc, and then post a link to that site, Andy.

    However, the owners of the BBS (J.S Ramsbottom) are working on upgrading the server so that folks can embed pictures directly into their posts.



    All the best Mick

  2. #32
    Gareth W-B's Avatar
    Gareth W-B is offline Retired Mod & Airgun Anorak Extraordinaire
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    Quote Originally Posted by I. J. View Post

    Get a room!
    Actually, at that price, we could get two, and be near(ish) you !!!
    _______________________________________________

    Done my bit for the BBS: http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....-being-a-mod-… now I’m a game-keeper turned poacher.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Presently you have to post your pictures with a hosting site such as Photobucket, Imageshack or Imagur, etc, and then post a link to that site, Andy.

    However, the owners of the BBS (J.S Ramsbottom) are working on upgrading the server so that folks can embed pictures directly into their posts.



    All the best Mick
    Thanks Mick.

  4. #34
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    Photos

    I'm sure that Edward will sort the photo issue for his past and present customers 😊

  5. #35
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    Alkanet oil has traditionally been used to to darken and bring out the grain in walnut stocks. I've never had much luck using commercial stains on walnut - you seem to lose the subtleties of the grain.
    "helplessly they stare at his tracks......."

  6. #36
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    HW35E stock....

    Now finished with 400grit and on 3rd coat of boiled linseed oil.... Looking good and grain really nice now, finish not 'tacky' . Looked on youtube and there is a guy in the US that seals the grain by sanding the oil into the stock wood on the first coat or two .... and it actually works ! Worked very small amounts of oil into the wood with one finger and then leave to dry between coats overnight..... Ok so far .... Only another few days of work now, but not too bad as it only takes 30-45 minutes per coat.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    That's way too fine, I don't even go down to 1200 with beech when I'm going to stain it. I'd be tempted t work back again to 400/500/600.

    If you use BLO it will darken with time anyway and it's a great oil to expose the character of the grain.
    You say 1200 is way too fine, why, what's the result if you go too fine on the finished wood ? I always thought the smoother the better but then the couple of stocks I've done have not turned out too good so keen to learn.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbull View Post
    You say 1200 is way too fine, why, what's the result if you go too fine on the finished wood ? I always thought the smoother the better but then the couple of stocks I've done have not turned out too good so keen to learn.
    On some older stocks with nice quality, tight grained, wood then you can end up with an almost polished surface. When you come to apply you finish some areas can be reluctant to absorb any oil, differential uptake. End result can be a patchy finish. If you're applying alkanet or any tinting then it exaggerates any unevenness in the finish further.

  9. #39
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    That's why I don't like staining beech... tinted lacquer all the way!
    I did see a guy on YouTube trying to market a product years ago which was a clear, paint on stabilizer of some kind. It gave the stain something to take to... so rather than getting dark and light- it all went dark... unfortunately I've no idea what it was!
    Donald

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