That's a lovely restoration project result. Bringing an old classic back to life. Well done. They are very well built guns and accurate once compatible pellets arrived at. I have five 45s in the rack. Love them.
Dave
That's a lovely restoration project result. Bringing an old classic back to life. Well done. They are very well built guns and accurate once compatible pellets arrived at. I have five 45s in the rack. Love them.
Dave
That looks stunning. My first proper air rifle was a 45 with an almost white stock, wish I still had it today.
You can spend thousands and still miss a barn door or spend just enough and enjoy yourself. If you haven't got the talent to start with a million pound won't fix it. Whippet, Russell, a few bang sticks and a flat cap. http://www.smart-tech1st.co.uk
H&N FTT's or anything with RWS on the tin. Mind you, my .22 45 loves Crosman Premiers. Which surprised me a bit as I don't rate the modern ones that much.
I've just put a scope on to give it a first try. Didn't have long as bad light stopped play. Bit weird. I thought it would have liked superdomes, but it seems it's not keen. Bit of a shotgun tbh. After a while, I swapped to JSB exact. First of all, clover leafs at 25yd, then it started to open out again by quite a bit and shoot a tad high and right,
Many points to consider. Firstly the barrel had been given a good clean. It may just need conditioning/leading up, to get to its best. Second, perhaps it doesn't like either superdomes or jsb. Thirdly, the gun has been totally restored and may just need shooting in. Fourth, its a new (second hand) scope, so an unknown quantity. Fifth, still experimenting, but it seems to like a firm hold rather than letting it have its head, which I do with all my other springers.
Also, BIG thanks to Jules (deejayuu) for sending me a proper trigger guard for it. Top Man!
Thank you Kenneth for a simply superb thread -- a thoroughly BRILLIANT renovation story to read and follow. Threads like this are just the sort of thing that make the BBS what it is: a wonderful place for air gun folk to visit and enjoy/swap stories and info on everything -- and anything -- air gun. Cheers: G.
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Done my bit for the BBS: http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....-being-a-mod-… now I’m a game-keeper turned poacher.
Check screws are tight after a shoot especially as its all a bit fresh with so much work done. They will rattle cheap scopes and poor mounts. Should after "shooting in" just stay there.
Scope should be up to it, it's a Bushnell trophy. Early days yet, I'm sure it will reveal all given some more use.
Loads more pellets through this morning after tightening eveything up. Better groups, especially with superdome. Doesn't seem to like JSB. Chronoed after session and the gun was dweezelling again. Still doing 595 though. Then all of a sudden stuck a 540 in! Then seems to settle at 565. There's a good guide to these on Pyramid air. I'll stick a link in at the end of the post. The gun he worked on did this sudden drop just for the odd pellet. He says he'll explain in a different article, but I can't find it. Leaving the gun till this aft, when I chrono again and see whats what.
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/?s=original+45&btnGo=
UPDATE.
Chronoed again just now. First shot 595 (as it was doing initially), no dieseling, then next shot 790 (20 fpe ) and dieseling like mad. Next few shots back to 595 and absolutely no dieseling. Any ideas? I can't imagine that any grease is migrating to the front of the piston seal. Everything has only been lightly lubed in the first place. The only lube in the compression tube is what will have come off the leather piston seal when refitting.
Last edited by LESS THAN FORTUITOUS KENNETH; 25-10-2017 at 04:50 PM.
Probably excess oil in the leather piston seal yet to be wicked and burnt off. Not unusual in case of leather for dieseling / smoking to subside during use, then recur when gun next out. It has settled down again quickly after the single bang, so I'd carry on shooting it as much as possible to bed it in properly. If it does bang off again and again, you'd be advised to strip it and press as much oil as possible out of the seal. It doesn't need extra moly on its edges either, only the piston bearing surfaces.