Yep. Dont use cheap electronic scales. I use a set called Gem Pro 250 by a company called my weigh. I only got them on recommendation as they were being used by BR shooters in the states, but I watch the tare setting like a hawk (although the actual fluctuations will not really affect the group much anyway with my discipline). I have some RCBS for standby.

Make sure you get a decent set of electronic calipers as they will be your eyes and ears for fault finding, and keep records of your loads. If you get something seriously right, you want to stick with it right?

I would suggest getting both FL and neck dies, or possibly FL and Lee Collet dies as the latter gives a very consistant neck with minimum faff. FL is worth looking at because even new brass will benefit from being FL sized and trimmed before use. I FL size all of my 5.56x45 brass as it goes through an AR15 quite rapidly and has to chamber properly.

When you feel the need I would highly recommend the OAL gauges from Dave Bonwick at the shooting shed, and although I know they are expensive, check out a Forster classic case trimmer and 3in1 cutter head. I tried cheaper methods but went back to the 3in1 (although I have adjusted mine slightly to make the chamfer less agressive).

I dont know what to recommend regarding case cleaning...well I do but again it aint cheap. IF you want very clean brass, pretty well all over, then stainless media wet tumbling is hard to beat. All this said it is not beyond most people to build their own STM tumbler, I will when mine finally dies.

The most important thing initially is to be able to understand and operate the kit safely, then produce small volumes of consistant ammo. Shy away from kits as you will probably replace stuff as you go on. Some of the Lee kit is very good (I believe their classic press takes some beating) but some is crap. Their dies are OK, I use a mix of RCBS/FORSTER/LEE/REDDING/WILSON and have picked these up as I have gone along. Make sure you keep the cones of lee crimp dies and collet dies oiled or they will stick.

Once you can do it without blowing anything up, then work out what best fits your shooting. The various powder and bullet websites are good for load data. I would suggest loading to SAAMI dimensions first before you try messing about with different COALs etc. Adjust your load first then mess with the seating depth if the results are not acceptable.

Make your own case sizing lube from 1 part lanolin and 9 parts 99.9% IPA (Available on line, Amazon).

Finally, make sure you have either a mentor, or have a good read and understand the terminology, internal ballistics (What goes on when things go bang before the bullet leaves the muzzle) and what the dangers/danger signs are. If in doubt ask.

It sounds daunting but accidents are thankfully rare and most rifles will suffer some abuse, but dont forget it may be accumulative so if you dont like the look or feel of something, stop.

If your primer is flat, holed, has black round it or has gone....stop (and check out the state of your bolt face).

If your round is hard to chamber, dont chamber it. If it is hard to extract, it may be a sign. This is why FL sizing initially and correct trimming is important.

If it goes pop or less of a bang than you expected, for gods sakes dont load another and fire it. Be lucky and it wont chamber, be unlucky and it will chamber behind another bullet and blow your rifle up.

Dont get wrapped up in chronoing and micro groups. Results can sometimes be down to random harmonics and conditions. If it is good enough for now, go and shoot and tune later. Velocity is not everything, its handy but accuracy/precision wins.

Keep your test targets for reference, write the load details on the target.

Sorry, got carried away

Enjoy it mate, its addictive and yes, you will shoot more