Quote Originally Posted by original45 View Post
If you want to have a go why not. Those who do nothing learn "0"!!

Simular to the supersport in ways so I will try and to explain what I do on mine.
Deburr all slots in main cylinder and piston.
It's safe practice to cut cardboard from cereal to slip in cylinder opposite slot you will work on.
If you use jewellers files or simular saves damage if you slip ,go to far and catch inner cylinder wall.

I stuff rag or simular in cylinder compression area saves too much debri going in less to clean out when prior to polishing .

You can beburr with tiny files, stones of suitable size or get grades of wet n dry glued on ice lolly sticks .

Next I would get a wooden Dowell,wrapped In soft cotton neatly smoothly.I fix in end with drawing pin ,tape on back edge to hold cotton neatly.

You want to wrap it so when layered it will slip in cylinder with a nice easy gentle force but contacts dia of main cylinder wall with wet n dry first ,then cotton latter.personally I wrap a 2000 grade wet n dry around it first ,taped rear end ,lube with oil n polish by twist n push forward gently again you want it neatly wrapped,little equal pressure on wall so it gently polishes wall. May take 20 passes . .then I remove paper,wipe clean and
I then add autosol metal paste and polish by pushing forward with a twist ,concentrating on the compression area of the cylinder until it looks shiny .

Now before anyone says I don't polish my cylinders such. Well I do and mine work fantastically and I have it on very good authority it's fine.
But we all have different ways and I respect that .

You can wrap cotton around lolly slick too to polish slot faces too with autosol .

Piston, I use 1200 grade first then 2000 grade wet n dry to get better polished surface on slot and rear of piston skirt,as it sits higher and is the only. Contact to cylinder wall except for o ring seal. then I polish with a dremil polishing mop or cotton cloth again autosol until it resembles chrome.

I use oil stone to smooth spring ends prior to polishing with wet n dry then autosol again.like chrome.
Rear guide again it's steel ,clean inside with wet n dry on round stick polish edges then ,wet n dry the guide outer ,polish after with solvo like chrome.

Piston slot,cylinder slot I do same ,and cocking shoe contact edges.

Wet n dry works well with oil,stones are also very useful and can be bought all sizes n grades.
I use jewellers files too.
These can be often found at boot sales over time v cheaply.

You can wrap spring in wet n dry to polish outer and around dowel to polish inner too.

Personally I would use original spring ,polished,guide polished. and cut a piston sleeve liner from a shampoo bottle plastic that simulated ptfe sheet.
This way you will see and feel how your deburr polish has improved your rifle .

You can find a steel or brass washer to fit rear guide, polish up too .
Same with front of spring inside piston add a polished washer ,to hold sleeve and aid rotation.

I'm sure their must be guides on net how ,what people have done such like.
It's just about taking off rough edges, then smooth and polish as required.

I'd be v tempted to run a brush up the barrel too, even if you bought one and pulled it through without a rod.
I use 100% cotton mop strands on my pull through too cut to lengths .folded in half..

Have fun,take your time. And above all be extra careful you don't cause damage with tools.
Thank you very much original45 for this outstanding advice.
I just read it with great pleasure.

Thank you also to the others who have commented. I understand that some of you say "leave alone", but I'd rather try a few things and learn, like original45 points out.
Otherwise I will never develop some skills, experience and knowledge. And this Meteor can do better, I'm sure. I am confident with repairing and improving my pcp's, so why not learn about springers with the Meteor.

I have ordered a nylon spring guide and top hat from Chambers, and a second standard main spring, so that I can test with different spring lengths, and feel the difference between a polished standard spring guide and washer, and nylon ones. The gun now produces 8 ft/lbs with 8.44 gr JSB Exact 4.53. The pellets seem to be a bit loose in the barrel even though it's 4.53; perhaps the barrel has a wider section at the start, for ease of loading. Will have to test different pellets.

This will be a nice project. I will add updates. Need to collect the right tools and materials first.

By the way does someone know which mounts to use? Yesterday I tried standard 11 mm mounts, but they didn't work. I think it's 13mm. As the mount grooves are cut in the cylinder, it's a bit awkward to measure. Also the mounts will need to have sharp contact areas with the grooves, as the grooves are pretty shallow.

Cheers! Louis