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Thread: HW35 With Rotating Piston

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigeondave View Post
    What are the advantages to having a fully rotating piston?
    Ah :-

    image.jpg

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno27 View Post
    Have you considered a piston without bearing by the piston seal?
    As with many break barrel guns, when you cock an HW35 the tail of the piston is pushed upwards and the nose of the piston tends to be forced downwards, so the use of a front bearing keeps the piston parallel in the cylinder.




    All the best Mick

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Ah :-

    image.jpg
    I should really pay more attention to what I've previously read in threads which I've started.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    There's a couple of tricks to stop rust bluing going tits up, Nick --- don't rust too long, and if in doubt, boil.
    Also, take a really deep breath before checking on the rust!
    I made that mistake once, o was using a couple stops of neat hydrochloric!
    Donald

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig-P View Post
    Just Hammerite it and get on with the build...

    Nicely done - looking forward to the end result, mate.
    At this rate I might be assembling it sooner rather than later, Craig.

    Yesterday morning :-

    image.jpg



    This afternoon :-

    image.jpg



    I did cock up a bit last night as I rusted too long and got some pitting on the underside of the action along the cocking lever slot.
    As it won't be seen when the gun's assembled I just bid it bollocks and carried on with the process.

  6. #21
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    Excellent. Really looking forward to seeing this.
    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  7. #22
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    I'm looking forward to shooting it, excellent work Mick, atb Daz

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    As with many break barrel guns, when you cock an HW35 the tail of the piston is pushed upwards and the nose of the piston tends to be forced downwards, so the use of a front bearing keeps the piston parallel in the cylinder.
    All the best Mick
    Agree Mick. As you cock the rifle, most of the load is taken by the rear bearing surface. I consider the load at the front of the piston to be negligible during cocking, the seal being able to take this load and as you fire the gun, the only force is on the axis of the piston (if you ignore moment on this axis induced by the spring). I have modified the piston of my Diana 35 (old) with no front bearing and it works fine.

    Less friction = more power and more consistency

    Cheers, Bruno
    Last edited by Bruno27; 23-11-2018 at 05:49 PM.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno27 View Post
    Agree Mick. As you cock the rifle, most of the load is taken by the rear bearing surface. I consider the load at the front of the piston to be negligible during cocking, the seal being able to take this load and as you fire the gun, the only force is on the axis of the piston (if you ignore moment on this axis induced by the spring). I have modified the piston of my Diana 35 (old) with no front bearing and it works fine.

    Less friction = more power and more consistency

    Cheers, Bruno
    Hi Bruno

    Thinking about it, the Diana 35 and many other Diana break barrels would be ideal to convert to rotating Pistons due to their sear rod and trigger arrangements.



    I'm on my last rusting of the HW35 cylinder before it gets dunked in Kerosene for 24 hours to harden off, so hopefully I'll have this 35 up and running by next weekend.

  10. #25
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    Be great to hear what it's like once together, Mick.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    I'm on my last rusting of the HW35 cylinder before it gets dunked in Kerosene for 24 hours to harden off, so hopefully I'll have this 35 up and running by next weekend.
    slightly more rapid progress than your "improved" airsporter then
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    slightly more rapid progress than your "improved" airsporter then
    Ah well Jon, my life got put on hold when I collapsed on August bank holiday last year and had to spend six months lying down.

    I'm still not right but I'm trying to get a few projects sorted, top job on the list is sorting my fume bluing setup --- but I think I've about cracked it now thanks to B&Q.

    A B&Q immersion heater element in one of their 90cm long planters makes an excellent electric boiling tank, and a second 90cm long plant pot with lid makes a good rusting tank.




    All the best Mick

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    Please tell me you have CCTV so we can all enjoy the show when it inevitably goes tits-up!



    image.jpg




    image.jpeg

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno27 View Post
    Agree Mick. As you cock the rifle, most of the load is taken by the rear bearing surface. I consider the load at the front of the piston to be negligible during cocking, the seal being able to take this load and as you fire the gun, the only force is on the axis of the piston (if you ignore moment on this axis induced by the spring). I have modified the piston of my Diana 35 (old) with no front bearing and it works fine.

    Less friction = more power and more consistency

    Cheers, Bruno
    The guide also helps keep the piston flying straight and true as the latch rod is inside it all the time
    Strange how my avatars and settings keep getting either deleted or messed around with

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig-P View Post
    Excellent. Really looking forward to seeing this.
    Quote Originally Posted by BAD DAZ View Post
    I'm looking forward to shooting it, excellent work Mick, atb Daz
    I'm hoping to have it up and running ASAP as it only needs assembling now, but I've got a little waylaid again.

    I'd never had any success with fume bluing in the winter months until I cobbled together the heated wheely bin I used to rust this 35 cylinder, so I thought I'd go a little further and make something permanent.

    I'm going to fume blue my next project while I'm assembling the 35, now the next gun's a .177" BSA club special standard which has the longest action of any of my guns, so I've set to and built a heated fume bluing cabinet long enough to fit that action in. :-

    image.jpg

    image.jpg


    In the bottom tank is an electric oil filled radiator with thermostat control so I can adjust the temperature, this warms the underside of the B&Q planter which is set into the wooden top of the bottom tank.
    The hinged lid is made out of thick timber to act as insulation and also to give weight to compress the B&Q draught excluder sealing the lid to the bottom tank when closed.


    And it only cost me £16.75 in parts.






    All the best Mick

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