same process as lapping valves in engines just add a bit and turn repeatedly
Recommended by Gaylord as well in his review; but I’m not really familiar with this process?
“A real fanatic might have used some automotive valve-grinding compound to hand-lap the front of the bolt into the rear of the barrel; but this wasn’t my rifle, so I left it at that.”
same process as lapping valves in engines just add a bit and turn repeatedly
Yes I am itching to reseal it. I need the T1/T5 tool though. Unfortunately it is not available from Baker Airguns, JG airguns or Rick Willnecker of Precision Pellet.
Luckily Ped is a fantastically friendly and very knowledgeable/skilled man who has offered to make one for me. That is really nice.
I'll keep you updated.
Cheers, Louis
Last edited by jirushi; 03-12-2018 at 06:18 AM.
no probs Louis
a lightweight one just needs a fettle on the edges a hole for a tommy bar and a handle if you want one
https://i.imgur.com/9FbJV3j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ndD0mtm.jpg
i'll try to get it in the post tomorrow for you
Curious what is your view since you now own a thick and thin stock T&C. I was in a discussion on another website with a collector that really does not like the thin stock rifle compared to the thick stock? I always thought it looked more refined but have never held one.
Such a lovely rifle Louis! Lets take that to the (home)range, wonder how it performs!
Lovely rifle!
When your world is full of strange arrangements
And gravity won't pull you through
Thank you gents.
Ped's well built tool has arrived and yesterday evening I finally had time to disassemble the gun.
I found a "Crosman authorized service manual" from the sixties on online-book website scribd (and I've ordered a copy on Fleabay in the meantime).
This gave me rough guidelines, although there are several things that I still need to figure out.
The most important question at the moment is how to remove the pump cup. It's held in place tightly by a round brass nut, that I cannot grip without damaging it.
I think it's Loctited, but I'm not sure if Loctite already existed in '49? It could have been done later of course.
Also from the inside, it's a nice gun. I'm sure I'll be able to get it to work again.
Any tips for the pump cup are welcome. I can of course try to heat the brass nut, but that will also burn the felt (?) black part behind it, which helps to stabilize the cup in the cylinder.
Cheers, Louis
Ped's tool:
The pump cup:
After removing the valve nut, I used a steel rod to remove the innards of the valve housing, from the front of the gun towards the rear.
This took some tapping; I think that things got stuck a bit after all those years. The parts are in very good condition though.
This pin needs to be removed to access the front of the cylinder.
The new T&C seals from Rick Willnecker. I will measure them for future reference.
Very cool that everything inside looks so good! Looks like the outside, little used or well cared for gun. I’m no expert having resealed only one gun but it was a 1949 101 with the same pump cup. I remember having the same issue. As I remember I had to cut off the old pump cup so that round nut was totally exposed. Wrapped leather around it and used my long grippers and it finally broke free. I’m pretty sure it was not lock-tighted? I don’t remember heating it but I have a micro torch I use for this and I could have, but doubt it.
If I were you I would reseal the gun and see if you really need to change it? It looks pretty good? But your there and can examine it better, it may be rock hard? I really think mine is still working with the old seals, but that may not be true? Can’t wait to see the numbers you get when this is resealed. Should really represent what a 107 was capable of.
Inside you see the advantage of the Crosman design of this era, well built, simple, and easy to reseal.
Last edited by 45flint; 14-12-2018 at 10:40 AM.