An engineering / manufacturing question

[harvey_s]

Personally I wouldn't use stainless as it has a propensity to gall in high friction applications.
Most steels EN8 or better should be more than adequate in their natural state and in a pivot you want the pin to wear out before it starts enlarging the hole which is more difficult rectify as you lose the centre and increase the diameter each time.

[keithy]

What you need is silver steel rod from an engineers merchant its available in lengths of about a foot. Its precision ground high carbon steel but drillable you can temper it afterwards if you wish and it will then be very hard. I used to use it in the tool room at work regularly. I would also try the bay.

[NickG]

ditto silver steel harden in oil , then no need to temper afterwards

[bezzer]

Silver steel comes in oil or water quench types. Oil quenching doesn' t mean it's tempered to the required use specification you still need to temper at the right temperature or colour.

[NickG]

No only ever come across one type , I may be wrong . Quench in water then very hard (65 rockwell) but very brittle , you can then temper in a flame , from straw colour through to blue, or you can be scientific and do it in an oven , or you can heat to a dull red then quench in oil, to give a hard wearing but tough condition ideal for pins and latch rods , done many this way and it works , but obviously if you can case harden mild steel effectively in your garage then that would be ideal.

[rapidresponse1]

hope you had a goodun bud

[maximus]

I would use silver steel and leave soft. Better that the pin wears than the expensive cocking lever.

Regards Max