The barrel is threaded, but is also soldered, so you will have to heat it while unscrewing it, it is quite simple but just take care not to burn yourself.
Cheers , Lawrie.
Has anyone replaced the air cylinder on a prewar underlever? and I mean unscrewing the barrel tap loading end from the air cylinder tube.
the reason I ask is, the past year I have been sorting out my Lincoln Jeffries / BSA under levers, a few at a time. I am down to the last 3, one of which is a model d but has a damaged air cylinder, no etching and had crude scope rails cut into it. I also have a scrap model d gun that has a good air cylinder with visible etching but a carbonised barrel. My thoughts are to swap the cylinders and end up with one nice gun.
Anyone tried it?
The barrel is threaded, but is also soldered, so you will have to heat it while unscrewing it, it is quite simple but just take care not to burn yourself.
Cheers , Lawrie.
Many thanks, I'll give it a go.
One worry was something Ed told me, he did one and found when he screwed the new cylinder and barrel together the cocking slot didn't line up. Which was due to the air cylinders when measured being found not to be the same length.
But in the end what do I have to loose...
Many thanks for everyones help.
If one were to do this would you put it back together with more solder or use loctite? I guess it would have to be solder if you ever wanted to hot salt blue it in the future. Don't all shriek at once at talk of re-bluing one of these old girls
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Re putting it back together. A few years ago I was asked to look at a L pattern rifle for which the cylinder had come loose at the front end ... just started to unscrew. A shop / repairer deemed it uneconomic to repair. I fully dismantled it, cleaned the screw threads up and re-assembled it using JB weld on the threads, taking care to get the alignment spot on. It worked perfectly and the owner was / is very happy as the rifle had been his grandfather's.
Cheers, Phil