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Thread: Browning solution

  1. #1
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    Browning solution

    I have an antique percussion barrel that I'm thinking of re browning, I've used Gunguard Slow Brown for years and still have a part bottle that may not be quite enough to do the full job (it's a long barrel).
    I've always had satisfactory results with this product but thought it worthwhile asking what other people are using these days, before placing an order..

  2. #2
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    Barrel Browning

    I have never found any blueing or browning chemical hard wearing so I decided to rebrown my barrel, before it was put on my FAC.
    It is a long job, it took me about three months, but I could have done it quicker if I had kept it sealed in a tube between applications instead of letting it dry out in between.

    https://postimg.cc/gLvd3ZpY/d1241382
    https://postimg.cc/jDGb3cjs/cc0ec3bc
    https://postimg.cc/D8rLwjtN/ce639a5e

    I used the following cold method:-

    BROWNING BARREL & OTHER PARTS.

    Iron and steel parts such as the barrel, lock, trigger and screws should be browned to be authentic. This is accomplished by causing a controlled rusting to take place on these parts.
    The metal should be polished sufficiently to remove rust, pits and tool marks, however a high polish is neither necessary nor desired in our case. Fine wet or dry paper of about 400 grade will do an adequate job. Be careful not to round off any corners which should remain sharp. The barrel should be sanded lengthwise with the paper wrapped around a block of wood to prevent rounding of octagonal ridges.

    The formula consists of dissolving about ½ teaspoon Sal Ammoniac, (Ammonium Chloride), and a piece of Copper Sulphate crystal about 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/8” in size in a pint of water.
    The parts should be thoroughly degreased by washing with soap and water, followed by a bath of household Oakite or Borax.

    COLD RUST METHOD.
    Rub the solution on the metal with a clean rag being careful to thoroughly wet all parts to be browned but leave the surface only damp. Puddles or droplets tend to make streaks or spots. Leave the work in a damp place for about 6-8 hours until a coat of rust develops. In dry climate it will help if the work is placed in a box covered with damp rags. The rags must not touch the work. After the surface has rusted over, brush the work off with a fine steel wire brush which has been degreased. Under the loose rust will appear a coat of brown. Repeated applications will darken the finish. The work should be kept at about 75F or higher during the application of the rusting process.

    BOILING METHOD.
    Bring solution to the boil in an enamelled or Pyrex dish. Dip the work on a wire or string in the solution for 45 seconds. Remove and shake or blow off the excess solution and evaporate dry over the fire, without over heating the metal. Allow work to rust sufficiently to produce a solid coat of rust and then remove rust. One application generally gives a good brown. Repeated applications or leaving in the boiling solution longer tends towards a reddish-purple, then blue and black. This method is very good for locks, screws. Etc.

    HEAT METHOD.
    Heat the work until it will almost cause water to sizzle-about as hot as a pressing iron for clothes.
    Dampen a small pad of rag in the solution and rub on the work, allowing it to evaporate off rapidly. Work small areas and notice that the brown will become apparent after about 10 passes.
    Continue over the work until the desired finish is obtained. This method does not require the rusting period, although the finish seems to darken and its resistance to wear is improved by allowing it to age for 24 hours before handling. If it rust some during this period, the rust can be removed as described above. It can be oiled immediately after obtaining the desired colour without affecting the finish, which will reduce after-rust. After obtaining the desired colour with any of the three methods, the work should be washed with soap and water to stop after-rusting.

  3. #3
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    I've tried a fair few methods and always thought the cold was best for an even controlled finish.
    I have a copy of Firearm Blueing & Browning by R. Angier, bought in the 1970's but never got round to trying any of his more advanced mixes. A hard wearing finish is not my first priority as I no longer have any interest in shooting the older stuff, though I did regularly, many years since, when there was no need to list guns on a shotgun certificate but we did have to ask for a letter of permission from the firearms department, to purchase the black powder. I'll give some thoughts to your mix. Thanks.
    Mel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mel h View Post
    I've tried a fair few methods and always thought the cold was best for an even controlled finish.
    I have a copy of Firearm Blueing & Browning by R. Angier, bought in the 1970's but never got round to trying any of his more advanced mixes. A hard wearing finish is not my first priority as I no longer have any interest in shooting the older stuff, though I did regularly, many years since, when there was no need to list guns on a shotgun certificate but we did have to ask for a letter of permission from the firearms department, to purchase the black powder. I'll give some thoughts to your mix. Thanks.
    Mel.
    I forgot to say, remember to block up the nipple, oil the barrel and block up the muzzle before doing it if you decide to give it a try.

    Atb

  5. #5
    keith66 is offline Optimisic Pessimist Fella
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    Like most airgunners i tried cold blue solutions which gave poor results, streaky non durable coating etc. I also tried birchwood casey plum brown stuff, this gave an interesting colour on a plai iron barrel but i suspect it was no more durable than the cold blue stuff.
    I bought Angiers book & it has loads of good info though obviously written aeons ago so much is out of date.
    One day at Bisley arms fair i bought some real browing solution from Blackleys, It gave proper real results on an antique damascus pistol barrel.
    It also gave good results used as a blue the only difference being that i boiled it after each pass, the boiling converts the ferrous oxide to black ferric chloride. The main reason for any problems is poor degreasing.
    A bottle will last you years, its highly poisonous as its got mercuric chloride in it, dont use it anywhere near anything you dont want to go rusty!
    Link here, https://www.blackleyandson.com/acata...Metals-p1.html,
    Ignore the birchwood casey snake oil crap, scroll down to gunguard slow brown.

  6. #6
    arnie2b Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by keith66 View Post
    Like most airgunners i tried cold blue solutions which gave poor results, streaky non durable coating etc. I also tried birchwood casey plum brown stuff, this gave an interesting colour on a plai iron barrel but i suspect it was no more durable than the cold blue stuff.
    I bought Angiers book & it has loads of good info though obviously written aeons ago so much is out of date.
    One day at Bisley arms fair i bought some real browing solution from Blackleys, It gave proper real results on an antique damascus pistol barrel.
    It also gave good results used as a blue the only difference being that i boiled it after each pass, the boiling converts the ferrous oxide to black ferric chloride. The main reason for any problems is poor degreasing.
    A bottle will last you years, its highly poisonous as its got mercuric chloride in it, dont use it anywhere near anything you dont want to go rusty!
    Link here, https://www.blackleyandson.com/acata...Metals-p1.html,
    Ignore the birchwood casey snake oil crap, scroll down to gunguard slow brown.
    You Sir,
    Has got it spot on as far as I'm concerned. If you want to go the best diy route. One can improve things when one wishes.

  7. #7
    keith66 is offline Optimisic Pessimist Fella
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    Thanks, the slow brown solution will give the same results as used when the gun was built, to brown or blue a barrel will take anywhere from 3 to 6 passes, maybe more depending on the composition of the steel or iron, each pass creates a layer of loose rust that has to be removed or carded off, a soft brass wire brush or grey scotchbrite pad, more solution then hang up to rust again,usually overnight is good enough then repeat until the desired depth of colour is acheived. Proper degreasing is the absolute key!
    I am surprised this stuff is still available really as its proper poisonous, gloves goggles & mask definately a must!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith66 View Post
    Thanks, the slow brown solution will give the same results as used when the gun was built, to brown or blue a barrel will take anywhere from 3 to 6 passes, maybe more depending on the composition of the steel or iron, each pass creates a layer of loose rust that has to be removed or carded off, a soft brass wire brush or grey scotchbrite pad, more solution then hang up to rust again,usually overnight is good enough then repeat until the desired depth of colour is acheived. Proper degreasing is the absolute key!
    I am surprised this stuff is still available really as its proper poisonous, gloves goggles & mask definately a must!
    It sounds like the solution is the same as Ammonium Chloride and Copper Sulphate that is used in the method mentioned. The procedure also sounds the same.
    I have tried chemical browning agents in the past and they don't cause rusting. They stain the metal and each coat darkens it a bit more, but it is not hard wearing.

  9. #9
    keith66 is offline Optimisic Pessimist Fella
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    Yes, in Angiers book there are many recipies, Ammonium Chloride, Mercuric Chloride, Ferric chloride are all common ingredients, they promote rusting with a vengeance, Other ingredients can & have been used. Its the old slow rusting process. Not worth making your own as some of the chemicals will be hard to obtain. Ferric chloride was often used in schools for PCB etching, We had a big tub of the granules where i used to work, should have had some!

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the input everyone, I've been happy using Gunguard Slow Brown, I've always found that a decent finish can be achieved in a week or so. I was just wondering if any other products had appeared in the years since I first started. It looks as though I'll be placing an order for a new bottle soon.
    Mel.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith66 View Post
    Yes, in Angiers book there are many recipies, Ammonium Chloride, Mercuric Chloride, Ferric chloride are all common ingredients, they promote rusting with a vengeance, Other ingredients can & have been used. Its the old slow rusting process. Not worth making your own as some of the chemicals will be hard to obtain. Ferric chloride was often used in schools for PCB etching, We had a big tub of the granules where i used to work, should have had some!
    Ammonium Chloride is readily available and so it Copper Sulphate which is all I used to re-brown my gun barrel.

    I know what you mean about some chemicals being hard or impossible to obtain. Years ago you could by dilute Hydrochloric acid from the chemist that was strong enough for etching. But I doubt you would manage to get any these days.

  12. #12
    keith66 is offline Optimisic Pessimist Fella
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    You could still still buy hydrochloric acid in old fashioned ironmongers until recently under the name "spirits of salts", law tightened up on it a few years back following the rise in acid attacks. But you can still buy the stuff online, I bought a 25kg sack of ammonium sulphamate last year for weed killing & got it from Mistral chemicals in Northern Ireland, they do a big range of chemicals, just looked & quite a few bluing & browning chemicals are on their list.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith66 View Post
    You could still still buy hydrochloric acid in old fashioned ironmongers until recently under the name "spirits of salts", law tightened up on it a few years back following the rise in acid attacks. But you can still buy the stuff online, I bought a 25kg sack of ammonium sulphamate last year for weed killing & got it from Mistral chemicals in Northern Ireland, they do a big range of chemicals, just looked & quite a few bluing & browning chemicals are on their list.
    That is interesting, thanks. I have made a note of the details.

    Atb

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