As far as I can remember, Steve, they're just roll pins so should just knock out from either side.
Try drilling a hole in a block of hardwood to support the lever while you drive the roll pin into the hole.
All the best Mick
Can anyone assist plse.
Thought I’d spend the evening on a learning curve and strip my old MK2.
It looks ( by the crud and lack of witness marks anywhere as though it’s never been apart. First job I’m trying to remove the cocking leaver pins, the one on the trigger block is hollow, next one forward holding the linkage is solid.
I’m using a brass drift and 2-27 nylon hammer , neither will budge even slightly. The hollow pin left side ( tap lever side ) Trigger block has a thicker diameter than its opposite side , I’ve lubed with WD but no movement.
Am I right in saying they should knock out left to right ?
Both are absolutely solid but the lever works ok.
Any ideas please?
I’ve given them a good whack , I really don’t want to try a big hammer though.
Edit : Gun is a GD prefix if that’s meaningful at all ..
Thanks
As far as I can remember, Steve, they're just roll pins so should just knock out from either side.
Try drilling a hole in a block of hardwood to support the lever while you drive the roll pin into the hole.
All the best Mick
You could also try warming the alloy trigger housing up a little to expand the cocking lever hole a touch --- it could be that the roll pin is slightly corroded into the alloy.
You could also try using a vice to press them out with a nut on one side with a hole bigger than the roll pin, and a small bolt on the other side with a diameter smaller than the roll pin.
I've just smacked them out with a punch and lump hammer in the past.
Good luck.
All the best Mick
If they are that tight & really don't want to come out it it was me I'd be wondering if I really needed to get them out. Do they have to come out to repair something?
Good point!
Lockdown boredom set in so I thought I’d try my hand so to speak..
Got the foreword pin out and the linkage, lots of rust in the lube but it’s out. The back one won’t budge, so I thought , hey leave that one and see if the trigger block will knock loose with my new nylon weapon. The cocking leaver still on it. In my haste I’ve managed to splay the cocking lever slightly where the trigger block sits. No movement on the block after a few good whacks , so I’ve downed tools in the cellar and retreated to the safety of the kitchen for a cold beer!
My plan was a relube and check the leather seal. It was shooting at 9 / 9.5 ft lb but felt very dry so.....
I’d like to learn a bit , but I think this nut will need cracking open by someone who’s knows what he’s doing .
Live and learn I suppose .
Maybe i should of gone for something a bit easier to cut my teeth on instead of something that’s age welded itself together.
There are ways to try & persuade pins out, various screw type jigs, strong threaded bit on one side, roll pin diameter hole on the other all in a "C" to support the opposite side, things in a press with appropriate sizes of punch etc. Even so some can still be a real blighter, sounds like you found one of them. Hopefully the splaying can be corrected & all will be well even if it doesn't come out.
just drip some neatsfoot through the port, and also from behind via the piston body.
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
I think I’ve gone past that point .
I bought the gun a couple of years ago on a Holts Auction. It was described as a gun that’s been in the wardrobe for decades. It’s pretty nice but in need of a service , check the piston etc.
I started it because the cocking lever retaining catch is very stiff to the point of being uncomfortable to release.
Hey Ho ...
From memory the front one is a riveted sort of pin like on the Cadet/ Major and early model Meteors http://www.airgunspares.com/store/pr...rt-No.-16-424/ . Very difficult to get out and then back in and peen over again. Probably shops drilled the "head" and then fitted a new pin and used some sort of clamp to peen it over .
Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"
Thank ggggr..
I think you are correct on the drilling out. The front pin which is solid was a right so and so to get out, but the rear which is hollow is impossible with the normal drift method. Don’t want to risk any damage by just bashing the hell out of it with a heavier hammer . I’ve already managed to splay the lever where it fits over the trigger block by 2 or 3 mm.
I’ll take it to the gunsmith I use and put my hammer under lock and key.
I took the stock off a MK1 I have to glue , and decided to strip that down part way just out of curiosity really, that went swimmingly, pins came out easy , knocked the trigger block to get it going , spring out, nice and straight , piston out , seal looked good apart from one piece of pellet debris embedded in the flat of the seal, cleaned , lubed seal two or three time’s with 3-one , re moly, back together , POW shooting lovely .
I’m a gunsmith now ... NOT !
MK 2, total opposite !
I’d like to learn , see the internals etc on one or two of my old guns but I don’t think I’d do it any favours armed with a hand held drill.
As Clint once said “ A man has to know his limitations “ .
For a "stubborn" roll pin, a stepped punch can be the answer. The punch smaller diameter fitting snugly in the roll pin and outer pin diameter obviously such that it just clears the hole the roll pin sits in. The stepped punch ensures good even contact with the pin circumference, keeping things nice and square so to say and making a successful good strike possible to shift it. Obviously the exiting side of the pin needs good support. The problem being if one does not have a lathe or someone with access to make one, or, trying to find and make a sleeve to fit over a bolt.....
Good luck with a frustrating situation.
Good suggestion, I like these 'dimpled' punches because they help keep the the roll pin concentric with the hole it's in & reduce the chance of the punch catching the hole at the starting point. I am not aware of anyone making them commercially but if you have the kit to make them they are handy.
If the pin you are faced with is peened over at the ends at the factory they did it for a reason....to stop it walking. Before anyone tries to get one out they need to assure themselves they can recreate the process with the replacement that is going to replace it.
I’ve created my own dimple brass punch by merely knocking the crap out of the absolute B****** cocking lever pin with what was a perfectly good brand new brass drift.
My plus gas arrived moments ago , I’ve applied it and I’m now waiting tapping my fingers on the work bench for something good to happen before tea.