"Leather food" for holster

[Carl2]

Having just watched yet another example of neglected leather on "The Repair Shop" got me thinking. I have a couple of holsters, a Luger and a Remington /Colt .45.
I have never done anything to them. What maintenance do they require? they are both in perfect condition but having watched the aforementioned programme I wonder if I should be cleaning them with cotton buds soaked in exotic solution and feeding the leather.

Any suggestions welcome.

[Turnup]

Neatsfoot oil is very cheap and available at all good tack shops.

[MartynB]

Neatsfoot oil is very cheap and available at all good tack shops.

Seconded

[bighit]

Mink oil is another .


Just be aware that neatsfoot and mink oil will darken the items its used on .

Also saddle soap.

[D10bore]

thirded ,great stuff neatsfoot,

[SRV1]

Again, Neatsfoot oil, or Dubbin; Colourless variety suits all leather, or black on black finished leather restores faded black leather. Applied with a cloth and rubbed well in, wax like in texture and smells nice too.....I have a black quality English made leather belt that is over 40 years old, worn regularly, good as new and only treated with Dubbin.


All the best....

[Carl2]

Neatsfoot it is then. Would it be wise to attempt to clean them in anyway first? They are not what I would call dirty but I doubt they have been cleaned since 1945

Many thanks for the replies

[Turnup]

I would not clean them if they were not obviously dirty. It will remove the patina. Neatsfoot will soak right through whatever is on the surface and will not prevent you from cleaning later if you choose to, Use it sparingly - it will soak in fast and it is tempting to keep applying it to "wet" the surface - resist that - you can always apply more later. Give it plenty of time to soak (days) and then you can assess the colour and evenness of finish. I brush it on the surfaces which do not show but rag it on visible surfaces. It will not give a shiny finish - for that you need to use polish after the Neatsfoot has had plenty of time to soak in. Don't overdo it because if the leather is saturated it will be quite weak (but will harden again over time).

[charliemow13]

I found this stuff works a treat on motorcycle leathers and walking boots to keep the leather in good condition. Not sure whether any of the ingredients would pose a problem if in close contact with the metal frame of a pistol though.

http://imgur.com/a/5PXc832

[Carl2]

Don't think I shall attempt any clean now just go with the original suggestions. No need to worry about contact with guns as they had to go many years ago although if I knew what I know now I would have seen if there was a possibility to have them de activated. My dad used to call them his babies.

I do have a Co2 Luger chucked in a draw. Not a million miles away as a replica but like all Co2 BB's a bit of a disappointment where accuracy is concerned and the reason I have never got around to buying a 1911.

Many thanks for your useful / informative replies.

[Carl2]

I found this stuff works a treat on motorcycle leathers and walking boots to keep the leather in good condition. Not sure whether any of the ingredients would pose a problem if in close contact with the metal frame of a pistol though.

http://imgur.com/a/5PXc832

I like the look of this. I walk on the seafront most days and think this will be ideal for my walking shoes / boots.

Thanks

[Daryll]

Apparently Ballistol is good for leather... never tried it though..

[Geezer]

I use mink oil on leather shoes and boots and it is great for that application. Doesn’t soften excessively, but prevents drying out and cracking.

[Shedder]

I seem to remember a guy who works with leather as part of his trade telling me that neatsfoot oil may be "corrosive" or damaging to some threads, so you may need to use with caution if there is any stitching.
I also understand that there are different grades or types of neatsfoot oil, and some are "better" than others. There may be a thread about it somewhere on here, or just try a google search.
Neatsfoot oil is a by-product of animal rendering and I don't expect many rendering plants separate calves (neats) from other animals these days (from what I have seen of the industry!).

[deejayuu]

Museums use Renaissence Wax but can go shiny. Not holsters but may be of interest. http://www.kaisersbunker.com/preservation/index.htm