Get a set of TbT spring guides and that will be fine.
At a stretch maybe a new spring as well.
I have had some wonkey springs before but not quite as wonkey as that one.
Ade
Just pulling apart a HW35 for a friends dad to see why it was making some awful mechanical noises when he cocked it. Both me and friend had told him before it didnt sound right and spring could be the likely culprit.
<Parental Advisory - expletive! >
http://imgur.com/a/djJavgH
Be good. And if you can't be good, be good at being bad.
Get a set of TbT spring guides and that will be fine.
At a stretch maybe a new spring as well.
I have had some wonkey springs before but not quite as wonkey as that one.
Ade
Shooting Air Rifles is like being a pubic hair on a toilet seat.
Eventually someone comes a long and P's you off.
They usually have a PCP
Cough --- Ox or Airforce Square section mainspring.
I'd also check for deformation of the cocking arm and bruising of metal on the piston. If the cocking arm is bent, you'll hear it grating along the outside of the spring during the cocking cycle.
Thanks for the correction there T20, getting my springs mixed up there. I'd like to take this opportunity to retract my previous statement re Titan being a nasty square section spring. 😁
Some of Mr. Tinbum guides are definitely on the list as is a new spring.
Be good. And if you can't be good, be good at being bad.
All good advice above. The 35's a wonderful classic rifle that still holds its head high today. And tough, too. With the appropriate parts checked and fitted, it'll be lovely again.
THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
NEXT EVENT :- May 17/18, 2025.........BOING!!
If it's making a noise like this it will be as CapitalBee has said.
http://imgur.com/a/2jBgU7U
You may need to unmute the video.
Nice 35 Luxus there, get a TBT kit, spring and fitted guides would be my advice.
Plinkerer and Tinkerer
If that's me you're referring to, it has already got a TBT kit in it and it now shoots very sweetly after the cocking arm was replaced.
http://imgur.com/a/bENaSa3
The image is a bit dark and it doesn't help having a black garage door but that's the best picture I have.
Last edited by gtfreight; 12-05-2021 at 09:13 AM.
What's the latest with the HW35 bud?
HW35 now reduced to about as many parts as it is possible to be in without actually chopping bits up for a thorough clean and inspection. All looking in pretty fine fettle so far. One maxi kit is on it's way from the fine Mr. Tinbum and theres no evidence of the cocking arm rubbing against something it shouldn't.
The little tang at the top rear edge of the trigger housing was deformed and you could see where it had been catching side of the rear sear, and the trigger unit was generally a bit gummy. So that's in many many pieces.
One thing I have noted on this and the hw110 I bought (sorry for mentioning one of those in the same thread as a HW35, feel like I committed and act of heresy) is there sometimes appears a lack of care or thought when disassembling rifles. The hw110 had evidence of liberal use of pliers or grips on part of the probe mechanism when all it needs is a firm grip between your thumb and finger and a wiggle to free the part from the action and the hw35 has a couple of scratches on the underside of the cylinder where someone has withdrawn the cocking arm (read dragged it out) without keeping it clear of the cylinder, or putting something non-abrasive between the two. Youd see neither of these flaws unless you stripped the rifles down and it's the thought that someone thinks if it cant be seen it doesn't matter. That maybe explains this and the meteor I've refurbished recently for friends which clearly had knackered springs in but had recently been "serviced".
Be good. And if you can't be good, be good at being bad.
Two lines running from the cocking slot? Probably the articulated cocking arm flexing and rubbing the arm against the cylinder. One thing I would suggest is check the play between the roller and pin in the cocking arm that is meant to separate the arm from the cylinder during the cocking cycle. What you tend to find is that the pin holding the roller in position wears and the roller drops below the level of the arm (hence the scratches).