342 = .22”, doesn’t it?
Benjamin franklin 342 .177
Just fired this rifle first time in too many years to remember, lovely sound it has been primed for many years I heard that it is the way to keep the valve in good condition ? and free from leakage.
This rifle In my possession 30 plus years.
What price are these going for ? I saw advertised a mint 347 for £150.00
My 342 is in used nice condition though the underlever is a bit loose.
The finish all brass with a nice brass butt plate.
No reduction on my.. to be collected, Anschutz 250. .177.
ATB
abewilson.
''The earth is but one country and mankind its citizens''
Baha'u'llah 1817-1892.
342 = .22”, doesn’t it?
Good evening Abewilson
The 342 is my favourite rifle at the moment, I was shooting it today. I resealed it a few months ago and replaced the pump lever rivet which helped tighten everything up.
You are correct about leaving a couple of pumps of air in, it keeps debris out of the valve and the seals in check. Make sure you lubricate the 3 pivot points with pellgun oil, 30Wt non-detergent motor oil or some of the special stuff Ped on here sells which also inhibits corrosion.
The 347 is the .177 version and the stripped back to brass finish is quite striking but it may reduce the price a little. The original black finish isn't very hard wearing and easily worn off. The brass butt plate will be a later addition, they didn't come with any butt plate.
The floppy pump handle could be because the pump lever spring has fatigued or it just needs a reseal after all those years.
You could start at £150 and see who's interested. I prefer the .22 it makes full power easily and it's easier to load.
Last edited by ratbuster2240; 17-05-2021 at 08:14 PM.
I think this may stir up a can of worms, but I disagree with the theory that keeping pumpers stored with a couple of pumps of air to avoid dirt etc. entering the valve because most of these valves are spring loaded to hold both the inlet and exhaust valves closed, this also applies to most Co2 guns, so can anyone explain how any contaminants can enter the valve, also if any debris enters the pump tube, it will most likely be forced into the valve when the gun is pumped anyway, and probably blown out when fired, The exception to this is some single stroke pneumatics eg. Walther model LP3 and 2 draw air in through the barrel and can possibly suck in fragments of pellets etc, the LP3 has a very small exhaust valve seal, which relies on a 5mm ball to do the work, and over the many years of working on these have never experienced one which had been fouled by the intake of any sort of dirt.
Cheers, Lawrie
Last edited by Lawrie Amatruda; 18-05-2021 at 12:18 PM.
value or amount you'll possibly get are two different amounts
if it's still all got original finish it's worth more than worn finish and polished a bit less
if it's in gwo but in a worn finish then £140-160 is a fair price to ask a minter over 200 maybe £220-£250 but would need to be boxed and mint
as to storing under pressure i do with knock open valves but not dump valves (i pump and fire every now and again),my thoughts are that the pump cup is kept under outward pressure better than if not as most pistons have some head space and the non return is under more load as are the o rings
Lawrie makes a valid point and dirt can't enter pumped or un pumped and his knowledge and experience on pumpers is better than probably any other person in the UK
for long term storage seals will deteriate no matter what
The instructions say to leave a pump of air in but it doesn't say why. If it's held air for all of these years then I would carry on doing it.
[QUOTE=ratbuster2240;8032275]Good evening Abewilson
The 342 is my favourite rifle at the moment, I was shooting it today. I resealed it a few months ago and replaced the pump lever rivet which helped tighten everything up.
You are correct about leaving a couple of pumps of air in, it keeps debris out of the valve and the seals in check. Make sure you lubricate the 3 pivot points with pellgun oil, 30Wt non-detergent motor oil or some of the special stuff Ped on here sells which also inhibits corrosion.
The 347 is the .177 version and the stripped back to brass finish is quite striking but it may reduce the price a little. The original black finish isn't very hard wearing and easily worn off. The brass butt plate will be a later addition, they didn't come with any butt plate.
The floppy pump handle could be because the pump lever spring has fatigued or it just needs a reseal after all those years.
hi bud, did you ever find out what was causing the floppy pump handle ? ive got the same on my setra . i wasnt sure if it was the spring or maybe the pump cup being worn.. would be interesting to know how you dealt with that.
on adj piston pumpers a saggy pump handle that drops when fired is due to piston head space
on new guns the link ages are tight but as they wear if it has piston head space it will drop
when they went on to fixed length pistons they started fitting lever springs into the pump linkage to keep tensipon on
crosman used a friction bung in the intermediate lever
from memory the setra has a non adj piston and a lever spring in the pump arm so that will be your issue i'd say
If your Setra pump arm doesn't drop down after each shot then don't worry, If it does you could try a new pump cup seal.
I fitted an adjustable rod to my Sheridan and it solved the floppy pump handle. I think the pump handle spring had weakened.
I think the Sheridan rods are 7.25" you might be able to swap your fixed Setra one for an adjustable or have a machinist like Ped thread your rod so you can adjust it. Mine only needed lengthening by 2 or 3 mm before it cammed over and held securely.
--ped-- + ratbuster
thank you gents! sorry for the delay in reply , still trying to get used to this place. cheers.