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Thread: Mk 6 Meteor strip down

  1. #1
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    Mk 6 Meteor strip down

    I want to strip my Mk6 and cannot find anything on the Internet. Assuming I can detach the trigger the retaining pin is of concern. Does it need just enough compression to squeeze the mainspring and take off the tension then knock it out and winding out my sash clamp?
    A Welsh willy kit is ready to go in.
    Any other tips gratefully received.
    Thanks folks
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  2. #2
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    There does seem to be SFA about it on the interwebby - but I'm sure I've read here & elsewhere later Meteors (6 ) are internally Gamo's with BSA barrels.
    Josie & John had a thread started 21/9/19 about serial numbers for Mk 6 & 7 Meteors which mentioned this.

    To quote; The Mark 6 was made from 1994 and was still being advertised in 2008. It had a BSA made blued barrel and BSA tangent rearsight but the cylinder and internals were GAMO made. The stock and overall profile, other than the non swept back trigger still had the lines of the classic Meteor.

    The Mark 7 has a longer cylinder, full power and a chequered stock of a revised profile. It also has fibre optic sights and no longer resembled the Meteor of old.


    Bru
    Webley Mk3 x2, Falcon & Junior rifles, HW35x2, AirSporter x2, Gold Star, Meteors x2, Diana 25. SMK B19, Webley Senior, Premier, Hurricane x 2, Tempest, Dan Wesson 8", Crosman 3576, Legends PO8.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Bru I've tried our forum and there's nothing about opening one up, not being au fait with Gamos I cannot cross reference the internals to a full Gamo rifle.
    I may have to jump in and unless somebody Knows better write it up. I will have to open up my Paratrooper again just to get an idea. It has a similar pin.

    The stock is close to a brummy Meteor and the bluing should have been carried on from the Mk1.This one is underpowered but apart from the different trigger feel it's close enough to an earlier Meteor for me to give it a place with the 1st 5
    Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 21-04-2023 at 07:49 PM. Reason: missed a bit
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  4. #4
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    Be aware the cross pin is stepped to engage/locate the spring guide so the guide must be pushed forward enough to clear it before pushing the pin out.
    A forked pusher is ideal. Will do photos tomorrow if it helps.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dornfelderliebe View Post
    Thanks Bru I've tried our forum and there's nothing about opening one up, not being au fait with Gamos I cannot cross reference the internals to a full Gamo rifle.
    I may have to jump in and unless somebody Knows better write it up. I will have to open up my Paratrooper again just to get an idea. It has a similar pin.

    The stock is close to a brummy Meteor and the bluing should have been carried on from the Mk1.This one is underpowered but apart from the different trigger feel it's close enough to an earlier Meteor for me to give it a place with the 1st 5
    Be interested to hear how it goes. I've got a Mk 4 (?) project, & a later 2012/3 one, which I bought off a gent on here c 2015. Not an Evo/Silentium, but I think it is regarded as a Gamo. Lovely thing, took over from my HW35 when I used to do pest control for a neighbour. Handles nicely, with a 4x32 scope really quick to get on target, & not too heavy - something I appreciate as I've got older.

    ATB

    Bru
    Webley Mk3 x2, Falcon & Junior rifles, HW35x2, AirSporter x2, Gold Star, Meteors x2, Diana 25. SMK B19, Webley Senior, Premier, Hurricane x 2, Tempest, Dan Wesson 8", Crosman 3576, Legends PO8.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ggggr View Post
    Hi--Ive only done 2 of these and the last one was ten years ago.
    I didnt need to use a spring compressor.
    I've just had a look at the diagram here https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-qovx...0.original.png

    and think you will have to undo B1280 before you put pressure on the end plug/ guide and knock out the pin.


    From memory before you do that you will have to unclip the anti bear trap and remove the trigger housing. The housing slides out and may need a touch with the file before you can slide it back in.

    Sorry I cannot be more helpful. I bloody hate Gamos

    Ps your inbox needs clearing.
    Doh!!
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  7. #7
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    Thanks all and special thanks to Guy.
    I shall have a go at it soon but the differences between the MK6 and the others are many. From Airgunspares I can see that the pin which goes through the spring guide and the cylinder is a plain one as opposed to lovely machined version on the originals. I think I shall take up the strain with my clamp before trying to remove it as I do not know how much preload it's under. If you look at the diagram gggr put up you will see the more complicated stock to action system and of course the screws are those horrible star fixing things.
    Interestingly the Welsh willy kit requires the spring guide to be shortened to a 7mm stub with his guide slipped over the stub. The instructions show a metal version where the diagrams show what looks to be a feeble plastic effort.

    Updates to follow
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  8. #8
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    Well well well

    Mk 6 Meteor now stripped down as below
    Remove the stock by undoing the two slightly upward pointing screws from the fore end and the two screws from the trigger guard. Pull the action out and remove the plastic end cap as you would a normal Meteor.

    You now have to remove the anti bear trap mechanism by removing the tiny circlip securing it to the trigger mechanism and very carefully wangling a small spring,just forward of the circlip. The bear trap link can now be separated from the trigger, pulled back and the cocking arm removed from the cylinder.

    Now pull away a small plastic part from the rear of the trigger and undo the bolt ( B1280) and a plate beneath to remove the trigger block I found his reluctant to come away but more gentle wangling got it out.

    The main pin holding the spring and guide comes next. I did take up the tension with my sash cramp and was glad because there is at least 40 mm of preload.
    Squeeze up the the end of the cylinder just tight enough to secure it and knock out the pin, there is no need to compress the innards past the pin as in MKs1-5, the pin is smooth apart from knurling at one end. I got lucky and pushed the pin from the plain end.

    Release the tension on the spring and remove. There was a lot of grease so the piston came out next with no problems.


    In this case I found the mainspring to have been snapped and not refinished. The gouging to the end of the spring guide was luckily minimal.

    The piston seal looks ok and the piston is at least a machined tube not folded and spot welded.

    Welsh Willy's cut and finished Titan spring is shorter than the damaged one so hopefully will be easy to reassemble.
    Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 22-04-2023 at 11:28 AM. Reason: missed a bit
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  9. #9
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    Apology for my careless error and well done with the project. Dim but willing.

  10. #10
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    No No No all debate is welcome. Remember I've got to put it back together yet.
    P.s I made my own tool but some one sells proper metal versions on A bey
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

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