Aselkon MX-10 in 22cal

[Racing]

Thx boys.

Taking a step back it seems Aselkon have at least TRIED getting their *rap together since, looking at their homepage as late as today.
In turn, there´s so many in bed with each other when talking the Turkish mans so.. who knows? Fact is, is it even doable repairing this bluntly put scarred rep of Aselkons?
No idea TBH.

Let´s be fair, this MX-10 is the former former generation Turkish guns and at the time... many of them were rubbish. At least in my opinion they were, and it shows very well when you start taking a more in depth look at how some of them are trying to progress to this day.
Take the Hatsan Factor for instance. That´s a semi recent unit, and still... i´ve had them in the door with their barrels machined on the wrong end. I´ve seen screws literally falling out of them, for a brand spanking new right outta the box unit.

Yes. Yes. I´m all to aware that Hatsan since has fallen back and regrouped on the Factor, these days in the market as "sniper" versions and god knows what... Issue i´ve got with that is that it is a rather dubious design from the onset and as the actual "frame" of the build hasn´t changed.. well. Whatever.. kind a..

MX-10 though.
It simply wasn´t put to the test pre production, and that´s my final word on it.

For instance.



Trigger blade is connected to the trigger assembly via a rod. There´s actually nothing inherently wrong with the actual setup (apart from lacking any and all adjustment stock, which in itself is moronic as all it took to literally TRANSFORM that trigger was a threaded hole and an M3 grub screw)..
Hoooooowever..
Trigger blade resides within the structure that is the scope rail and so on too, by regular bullpup standards by now. Then there´s two allen screws that work a sorts of clamp ( see picture), that keeps this structure to the tube/tank right.
All good except.. when you tighten down on them screws to make that structure stay put (in all fairness there´s yet another allen screw out rear that does it too) it clamps down so hard on the trigger blade at first that it goes solid.
IMO that´s fairly poor engineering to be honest. Well. Thus i turned two small bungs/spacers to make that go away, only to realize that that rod came to interfere with the rearward one AND the actual structure too!
Ok.
Now. As clearly seen in the picture what i´ve done was something as simple as clamping down on the rear screw to then run a drillbit through there to hand that rod somewhere to go.
Presto.
Done deal.
The question here though, seeing how extremely little that´s been spent on both the trigger blade, the rod and in turn the sear of the trigger group WHY wasn´t this done inhouse at Aselkon? Give me ONE good reason for this, cause if that made production cost jump say 5£ chalk that up on the presumtive customer as far as MSRP and walk away cause i absolutely GUARANTEE that the net result would have been a MUCH happier such customer.
To me that´s just poor economics.



Ditto the "other end" of that sub structure. The actual Pic rail. Mark my word, that thing was first up so full of their applied plastic goo nothing would really fit. But to add insult to injury so skewed it was "outta sight". Bent, twisted n warped at the same time.
To clear it all up, as an issue?
Baah... took me at least a minute and a half on the belt sander. At least...
Again.
WHY wasn´t this done at Aselkon? Really? What is this BS? Cause the thing is, with this build it never stops. You correct something just to realize that... that.. and.. that.. and.. that and so forth needs correcting just as much.

Indeed. If we instead regard this as an overpriced "kit" gun i´d say we´re better off. At least we´ll keep our sanity way longer cause.. so help me gawd.. A never ending story.

But, that being said.



This i believe at 36 meters (like what? 40 yards?) WITH a scope adjustment (as you can see some of the first shots printed to the left). In other words disregard the prints to the left, rest of it is a clip worth of 36´s going 920-930-ish @ said distance. Gun in turn, sporting the mods it does, can be run harder still. WAY harder even, and in turn is just as accurate using 40 grain 22cal H&N´s.
That there.. is not half bad. Barrel has indeed seen a tad of TLC on both ends but.. regardless. That´s some pretty stout performance out of a unit that´s barely held together as it comes out of the box. Btw. I believe the twist to be on 1:15, so no wonder it favors the heavier offerings.
In short, the actual HEART of this thing is good. The barrel.



Then, please don´t judge cause this is FAR FAR FAR FAR from done. I added the picture just to hand an idea. If you compare vs above that "bar" at the bottom has been cut down quite a bit, and made way more slim too. The trigger guard has been reshaped a fair deal. That sweeping "cutout" on the stock has been cut further back, and now seeing the pictures myself will become even more so.
In turn the actual pistol grip has been hollowed out, at first with a 22mm dia wood bit and then a 14 further on up. Out rear the buttpad came off and i drilled all in all 4 holes into it from the rear. Two on 14mm dia and then two on 20mm dia. All of them going as far in there as i felt safe.
Didn´t get to that today but will put the stock on the scales tomorrow again. Last weigh in told 1100grams+ and my hopes are that i lost at least 300 all said. One thing´s for sure, that there is some seriously dense and hard wood, i´ll tell you that much.

That done a lot of the "dark" of them different dyes used will go away as i keep sanding..

Actually used it on the rats tonight again, they have made themselves scarce though.. so tonight ended in an empty bag. That being said, as you´re aware i design and make my own moderators and as you can read in a different post i made a proto on a whopping 50mm/2" diameter and to keep it real..
She´s not overly loud, very far from it. It´s just that perspective change and this unit is starting to hand power levels where a larger can is called for. We´ll see where that ends up.