Vintage stock - is this a rescue or possibly making it worse?

[45flint]

Bought a really rare Diana .177 prewar 58 third series years ago. It was an auction with pictures that were not that great. When I picked it up I saw that the stock had been sanded and refinished. That drives me crazy!. Well after working on it I find that it shoots at 9.5 foot pounds pretty good for that era. The wood is really very nice but the checking was sanded almost flat. I was thinking that given the lines are still there would it be possible for me (I have never checkered wood) to buy a checkering tool and just follow the lines to bring back the checkering? My thoughts are I hate looking at that checkering every time I pick up the rifle. If I try this my fear is I will just make it worse? Anyone tried this? Any thoughts? The last pic is from a 58 I just bought with checkering as it should be.

[Troubledshooter]

Many years ago I bought a set of Dembart chequering tools, along with an instruction booklet, with the intention of doing exactly this to some Mk.2 service stocks that had suffered similar treatment, but have never got round to doing any of them, yet.

[ashf9999]

Get the gauge to check the line spacing to ensure you get the correct size tool. You have the benefit, as you say, of wanting to renew what’s there (so much easier), but there’s nothing stopping you practicing and practicing on scrap wood from new. A couple of years ago I renewed the checkering on a Browning Citori for a friend - he had also bought a kit (though I had to get a new comb for the handle as his was too fine) and decided he didn’t want to. Honestly it’s not that bad. If you apply gentle pressure you don’t cut too deep. Best secure the wood in a suitable (well padded) table mounted vice, though experienced people just clamp it in their legs. If you’re new to it, as I was a few years back, just take your time - you don’t need to cut full depth on the first pass. I haven’t checked as of late, but there’s bound to be various tutorials on YouTube. Or practice on a friends gun first

[draitzer]

Also years ago, I refurb'd checkering on a Walther 55 using Dembart tools from the 'bay. Ultimately I found it workable to use a single cutter, following the existing lines and taking it slowly as noted by ashf9999. The end result was pretty gratifying.

Don R.

[45flint]

Also years ago, I refurb'd checkering on a Walther 55 using Dembart tools from the 'bay. Ultimately I found it workable to use a single cutter, following the existing lines and taking it slowly as noted by ashf9999. The end result was pretty gratifying.

Don R.

That’s how I thought I would do it with a single cutter following the lines. Thanks for your input helps to know it has been done successfully and I’m not going down a path where I’m destine to screw up.

[Mark D]

That’s how I thought I would do it with a single cutter following the lines. Thanks for your input helps to know it has been done successfully and I’m not going down a path where I’m destine to screw up.

Having seen some of your work (WR grip) and others,I'm sure it will look great. I doubt 'screw up' is in your vocabulary

[45flint]

Having seen some of your work (WR grip) and others,I'm sure it will look great. I doubt 'screw up' is in your vocabulary

Thanks but I usually don’t post my screw-ups. Lol. But seriously it would be great to successfully restore such a great rifle.

[ashf9999]

That’s how I thought I would do it with a single cutter following the lines. Thanks for your input helps to know it has been done successfully and I’m not going down a path where I’m destine to screw up.

Yes indeed you’d need a single line for the border and to extend the main part up to that border. It’ll take a little longer, but will be just as satisfying.

[BC312]

I had a similar problem which i sorted out by simple cleaning, the checkering was full of old varnish and crap, a soaking in Acitone with a bristle brush cleaned out the checkering and with a re oil of the stock back to a decent checkering finish.

[isobar]

i agree with what has been said,nice and steady with a single line cutter and multiple passes until the right depth has been made,you already have good lines for the tool to follow.good light essential.

[Garvin]

I've done this Steve and dare I say, it's not so easy to screw up if you're refreshing what's already there, compared to chequering afresh. Just follow the advice above and take it slow.

[keith66]

And leave the border until last! in fact a good idea to put a couple of layers of masking tape round the outline, start with a good straight line in the middle & work outwards from that. Dem bart tools were available here & are excellent, not sure if you can still get them here. If your eyes get tired stop have a rest & come back to it later.
Borders are often put on stocks to hide over runs on cheap checkering jobs.

[Muskett]

Generally I would leave alone as it is an indication of its age and history. Requering won't add value, amd possible lose some.

Refreshing, recutting chequering just requires aplication and a steady hand. Slip half way through and its annoying.
The best chequerer I knew was the late Alan Wey. Real art.

[Garvin]

Generally I would leave alone as it is an indication of its age and history. Rechequering won't add value, amd possible lose some..

Not sure this is right tbh, because the existing chequering was sanded flat. I agree it would look worse if the chequering was damaged further, but IME this is unlikely with care, because the lines just need to be followed. Maybe the tool I using was so blunt the wood was safe from me bu**ering it up.

[Garvin]

The best chequerer I knew was the late Alan Wey. Real art.

Our very own Craig-P is also amazingly good. Here's an example of his work: