Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 61

Thread: Best way to refinish a gun stock

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Western Norway
    Posts
    325
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackrider View Post
    Beech in my experience is not easy, I've attempted about half a dozen in my time and none were 100% to my satisfaction.
    The problem comes with the end-grain which allows whatever you use to soak in leaving a much darker tint.
    It's a lottery. No problem with the end grain on this one but not much colour elsewhere either:

    Last edited by vestlenning; 12-02-2024 at 02:08 PM.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    clacton
    Posts
    725
    the problem i have found with refinishing previously stained beech is being unable to remove all the old stain.one way round this is to restain and finish with a tinted varnish to blend the patchy look of the wood.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2023
    Location
    Blckpool
    Posts
    159
    Does anyone know what coating they put on the HW 99s stock Please?
    Last edited by ToniD; 08-03-2024 at 10:37 AM.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Walsall, Midlands Uk
    Posts
    11,257
    Quote Originally Posted by ToniD View Post
    Does anyone know what coating they put on the HW 99s stock Please?
    Lacquer, same as all factory beech stocks.
    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2023
    Location
    Blckpool
    Posts
    159
    Thanks, I'm new to this.

    Toni

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2023
    Location
    Blckpool
    Posts
    159
    Quote Originally Posted by Logunner View Post
    Then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.
    Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months.
    Has anyone tried buffing with a polishing mop, or could it burn and damage the stock?

    I'm honestly not being lazy, just arthritic with nerve damage.
    Last edited by ToniD; 19-03-2024 at 01:48 PM.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    ECKINGTON PERSHORE
    Posts
    212
    I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2024
    Location
    Driffield
    Posts
    642
    I've got a stock that I've made out of beech, a beech stock off an AA 510 & a Hatsan stock (no idea what the wood is) that I'm going to have a stab at doing this week, after reading up on it I've decided to use boiled linseed oil with a wax finish.

    It'll take quite a while to let the oil soak in & dry in multiple layers but it should be worth it. Having bought a second hand 97 with a oiled & waxed finish it's incredible how much nicer it is to hold over a varnish finish.


    .

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    shoeburyness
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by 4end View Post
    I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.
    I to was trained in similar way there are so many unnecessary methods used, I have made my stock refurbs a little more robust by adding equal quantities of tung oil takes a little longer to dry but gives a great finish. The wood does not take very much oil to seal and then the oil sits on top and takes longer to dry, I have also added alkanet flakes to the oil to enhance the colour or some spirit stain, beware the alkanet flakes do not take long to emit the red stain and can easily be over done, Beech is more difficult because the grain is much closer and harder than walnut. I agree using this method it only takes a buff to polish up again.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2023
    Location
    Blckpool
    Posts
    159
    Quote Originally Posted by Waddy View Post
    I've got a stock that I've made out of beech, a beech stock off an AA 510 & a Hatsan stock (no idea what the wood is) that I'm going to have a stab at doing this week, after reading up on it I've decided to use boiled linseed oil with a wax finish.

    It'll take quite a while to let the oil soak in & dry in multiple layers but it should be worth it. Having bought a second hand 97 with a oiled & waxed finish it's incredible how much nicer it is to hold over a varnish finish.
    .
    I've been advised that Beech does not take an oiled finish well, it will go patchy and darken in areas. Try Tinted nitrocellulose guitar lacquer. I found Dartfords online, but if you have a guitar shop nearby you should get it there. Apply thin coats until you reach the colour you want. Then coat it with clear.

    Toni
    Last edited by ToniD; 24-03-2024 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Idiocy
    Open Channel D

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Eastwood
    Posts
    1,716
    Before I checked with Craig p I refinished a beech stock with black wood dye and walnut oil. a little bit of oil still comes off the pistol grip when used but is reducing now a year later.
    Craig will advise you that lacquer is best. He gave me a link to a Manchester guitar shop and there are some superb if slightly expensive lacquers there.
    I shall buy the gloss black for my next rescue 'sporter and bemoan my inability to produce the dual colours they get with guitars.

    Link to follow
    https://manchesterguitartech.co.uk/shop/
    Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 24-03-2024 at 09:53 AM. Reason: spelling
    The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Saxmundham
    Posts
    1,544
    Quote Originally Posted by Craig-P View Post
    Lacquer, same as all factory beech stocks.
    Usually with a stain added to it.

  13. #58
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Saxmundham
    Posts
    1,544
    A retired cabinet maker friend, now long gone due to the amount of ciggys he got through, revamped the beech stock on his HW80 so that it fit him corectly. I admired the finish on the original beech and asked how he treated the end grain on the front of the pistol grip as when I tried to use stain there it ended up really dark compared with the rest of the stock. He told me he used a light coat of what he called button polish on that area before applying stain.

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Oct 2023
    Location
    Blckpool
    Posts
    159
    Quote Originally Posted by greenwayjames View Post
    A retired cabinet maker friend, now long gone due to the amount of ciggys he got through, revamped the beech stock on his HW80 so that it fit him corectly. I admired the finish on the original beech and asked how he treated the end grain on the front of the pistol grip as when I tried to use stain there it ended up really dark compared with the rest of the stock. He told me he used a light coat of what he called button polish on that area before applying stain.
    Isn't that Shellac?


    Toni
    Open Channel D

  15. #60
    look no hands's Avatar
    look no hands is offline Even better looking than a HW35
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Telford, even closer to Tony L.
    Posts
    12,352
    Quote Originally Posted by ToniD View Post
    Isn't that Shellac?


    Toni
    Yep, another type of French polish.
    Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •