Best way to refinish a gun stock

[vestlenning]

Beech in my experience is not easy, I've attempted about half a dozen in my time and none were 100% to my satisfaction.
The problem comes with the end-grain which allows whatever you use to soak in leaving a much darker tint.

It's a lottery. No problem with the end grain on this one but not much colour elsewhere either:

[isobar]

the problem i have found with refinishing previously stained beech is being unable to remove all the old stain.one way round this is to restain and finish with a tinted varnish to blend the patchy look of the wood.

[ToniD]

Does anyone know what coating they put on the HW 99s stock Please?

[Craig-P]

Does anyone know what coating they put on the HW 99s stock Please?

Lacquer, same as all factory beech stocks.

[ToniD]

Thanks, I'm new to this.

Toni

[ToniD]

Then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.
Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months.

Has anyone tried buffing with a polishing mop, or could it burn and damage the stock?

I'm honestly not being lazy, just arthritic with nerve damage.

[4end]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

[Waddy]

I've got a stock that I've made out of beech, a beech stock off an AA 510 & a Hatsan stock (no idea what the wood is) that I'm going to have a stab at doing this week, after reading up on it I've decided to use boiled linseed oil with a wax finish.

It'll take quite a while to let the oil soak in & dry in multiple layers but it should be worth it. Having bought a second hand 97 with a oiled & waxed finish it's incredible how much nicer it is to hold over a varnish finish.


.

[leighvite]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

I to was trained in similar way there are so many unnecessary methods used, I have made my stock refurbs a little more robust by adding equal quantities of tung oil takes a little longer to dry but gives a great finish. The wood does not take very much oil to seal and then the oil sits on top and takes longer to dry, I have also added alkanet flakes to the oil to enhance the colour or some spirit stain, beware the alkanet flakes do not take long to emit the red stain and can easily be over done, Beech is more difficult because the grain is much closer and harder than walnut. I agree using this method it only takes a buff to polish up again.

[ToniD]

I've got a stock that I've made out of beech, a beech stock off an AA 510 & a Hatsan stock (no idea what the wood is) that I'm going to have a stab at doing this week, after reading up on it I've decided to use boiled linseed oil with a wax finish.

It'll take quite a while to let the oil soak in & dry in multiple layers but it should be worth it. Having bought a second hand 97 with a oiled & waxed finish it's incredible how much nicer it is to hold over a varnish finish.
.

I've been advised that Beech does not take an oiled finish well, it will go patchy and darken in areas. Try Tinted nitrocellulose guitar lacquer. I found Dartfords online, but if you have a guitar shop nearby you should get it there. Apply thin coats until you reach the colour you want. Then coat it with clear.

Toni

[Dornfelderliebe]

Before I checked with Craig p I refinished a beech stock with black wood dye and walnut oil. a little bit of oil still comes off the pistol grip when used but is reducing now a year later.
Craig will advise you that lacquer is best. He gave me a link to a Manchester guitar shop and there are some superb if slightly expensive lacquers there.
I shall buy the gloss black for my next rescue 'sporter and bemoan my inability to produce the dual colours they get with guitars.

Link to follow
https://manchesterguitartech.co.uk/shop/

[greenwayjames]

Lacquer, same as all factory beech stocks.

Usually with a stain added to it.

[greenwayjames]

A retired cabinet maker friend, now long gone due to the amount of ciggys he got through, revamped the beech stock on his HW80 so that it fit him corectly. I admired the finish on the original beech and asked how he treated the end grain on the front of the pistol grip as when I tried to use stain there it ended up really dark compared with the rest of the stock. He told me he used a light coat of what he called button polish on that area before applying stain.

[ToniD]

A retired cabinet maker friend, now long gone due to the amount of ciggys he got through, revamped the beech stock on his HW80 so that it fit him corectly. I admired the finish on the original beech and asked how he treated the end grain on the front of the pistol grip as when I tried to use stain there it ended up really dark compared with the rest of the stock. He told me he used a light coat of what he called button polish on that area before applying stain.

Isn't that Shellac?


Toni

[look no hands]

Isn't that Shellac?


Toni

Yep, another type of French polish.