More BSA Airsporter S

[Kevev]

It was BSA's effort for a positive scope mounting system, you have to buy the right size mounts, which are 13mm to fit the Maxigrip, it is held on the cylinder by three key ways and there us two strips of rubber sandwiched between the rail and the cylinder, this is supposed to reduce the amount of recoil shock to the scope, it is a bit of a pain to get on and off, standard mounts are normally 11mm, which fit the grooves cut In the top of the cylinder, like you will see on yours, they can be a bit shallow sometimes, Sports Match mounts do a special one piece mount that has a reach back facility, so they grip the scope grooves and allow you to mount a scope bit further back over the trigger block, to allow for better eye relief, that all depends of course if you decide to mount a scope and are just sticking with the open sights.

Thank you for the info. My rifle does have the grooves and was already had a Bushmaster 4x32 scope mounted in them when I acquired it. They seem to do a good enough job and look it looks neat and tidy. There are more screw clamps in the top of the mounting brackets, which allow you to move the scope backwards and forwards, as well as being able to do this in the cylinder grooves themselves. So there seems to be plenty of adjustment there.

I'm still trying to get my head round how the action works and I think it will be a case of everything becoming clearer when I actually take it to pieces. I won't be doing that until I get all the parts I need to service / tune it. At the moment I am waiting for replies from suppliers about parts and upgrade kits. So far I have only had a response from TbT Air Rifle Tuning Kits. I have been waiting for over two weeks now for a response from Welsh Willy and its been about 3 days since I contacted T.W. Chambers, so hopefully they will get back to me soon.

[Mark Palmer]

I can vouch for Wills (Welsh Willy) kits as being spot on, and as others have said he is a one man band and not the quickest at replying to email, I usually telephone him, also he has had some health issues, not sure how he is at the moment, in my opinion, worth bearing with him!

[Dornfelderliebe]

Seeing as you have the two grooves (dovetails) you can happily dismiss the maxi grip rail issues. Once you have removed the cocking mechanism you unscrew the trigger block, beware it will be under tension which you must counter for the last few threads.

When you reassemble it, the Welsh willy spring being pre cut to a manageable length will be easier to compress as you push and screw in the block. I usually hold the barrel and cylinder upside down on a carpeted floor then push down and turn.

I also try to note where the threads first bite, looking from above,and back up a few degrees which I gauge from practice without the spring.

Give Will a ring if he's got too many emails.

[angrybear]

Thanks for the info.

My rifle had two grooves on the top of the cylinder, not sure I would describe them as dovetails, either side of the Airsporter S logo. They are where the telescopic sight fits. It's a Bushmaster 4x30 scope and came already fitted to the rifle when I acquired it.

I would attach pictures but there is no option to upload them directly. It just gives the option to type in a URL link. My photos are on my PC not on a website. I am on a couple of classic bike forums that are very similar to this one and it is very easy on those forums to upload a photo from my PC. Not sure why it is not that simple here?

There is a sticky on how to up load pics
it's simple from a PC
quick & easy, open a new window go to postimages.org, select 640x480 size, I set mine to expire after 31 days, but you can leave them forever, select the image from your PC,
once loaded you get options highlight 'Hotlink for forums' & copy paste in to your open post on here. as below

only slight downside is the public have access to all pics on that site.


the other option to keep them private is to open an account on a free host site like imgbb.com, upload your pics to an album, (use private with link) & post the link on here, clicking the link in your post will access that album.

[Kevev]

For a mk1 Airsporter s, remove the stock, drift out the roll pin that the underlever pivots on, undo the two lock nuts that retain the underlever slide support bracket and remove the underlever assembly. The back block screws into the cylinder but can be tight. Once loosened, I put the muzzle to the floor (protected by an old piston washer or similar, maybe a wooden block with a counterbore to locate the barrel then unscrew. Warning, there can be quite a lot of tension (we call it pre-load) on the spring so make sure you have a strong grip on the back block. Some use a rag to protect their hands but I don't bother. Once unscrewed the spring and guides are lifted out. The piston should also slide out but can be tight if the buffer washer has degraded. I converted one of mine to a Diana parachute seal but it worked just as good with the standard o ring really. The o rings sold to fit the airsporters can be a bit tight so some folks fit a slightly smaller one from the meteor. Quite simple to disassemble, just be wary of the preload on the spring.

Hello again maximus.

I am going to be stripping my rifle down at some point this week and just wondered if you could help me with having a little more understanding of what I am about to encounter.

I am assuming that the piston assembly has a groove in the bottom, which the cocking assembly engages with in order to compress the spring and latch the piston rod to the trigger mechanism? If this is the case how does the cylinder locate radially, so that the slot and the latch rod are in the correct position to engage with the trigger mechanism and the cocking lever assembly? Is that achieved by what looks like a flat machined on the outside diameter of the piston, opposite the aforementioned groove, that I have seen in photographs of the piston assembly?

Regarding the trigger block that screws into the barrel. I understand how to get it off and that there is a force against it from the spring. I have seen a few videos where people have used a variety of methods to combat this force while removing the trigger block. Some look pretty crude and some look a bit over the top. What I want to know is; when it comes to screwing it back into place on re-assembly, how does it stop and tighten up in the cylinder with the trigger block aligned perfectly with the barrel and cocking lever assembly?

Also, I have seen a few comments about the Mercury piston O-ring seal being a better option, as it is not such a tight fit as the standard Airsporter O-ring seal. Do you just use the Mercury O-ring in the Airsporter piston, or do you use the Mercury piston and O-ring?

Cheers,

Kev

[Kevev]

Seeing as you have the two grooves (dovetails) you can happily dismiss the maxi grip rail issues. Once you have removed the cocking mechanism you unscrew the trigger block, beware it will be under tension which you must counter for the last few threads.

When you reassemble it, the Welsh willy spring being pre cut to a manageable length will be easier to compress as you push and screw in the block. I usually hold the barrel and cylinder upside down on a carpeted floor then push down and turn.

I also try to note where the threads first bite, looking from above,and back up a few degrees which I gauge from practice without the spring.

Give Will a ring if he's got too many emails.

Any idea, how to get hold of his number? I can't see one on his website. Just the contact form, on which I have messaged him twice over the last two weeks.

[Kevev]

There is a sticky on how to up load pics
it's simple from a PC
quick & easy, open a new window go to postimages.org, select 640x480 size, I set mine to expire after 31 days, but you can leave them forever, select the image from your PC,
once loaded you get options highlight 'Hotlink for forums' & copy paste in to your open post on here. as below

only slight downside is the public have access to all pics on that site.


the other option to keep them private is to open an account on a free host site like imgbb.com, upload your pics to an album, (use private with link) & post the link on here, clicking the link in your post will access that album.

Thank you
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[look no hands]

Hello again maximus.

I am going to be stripping my rifle down at some point this week and just wondered if you could help me with having a little more understanding of what I am about to encounter.

I am assuming that the piston assembly has a groove in the bottom, which the cocking assembly engages with in order to compress the spring and latch the piston rod to the trigger mechanism? If this is the case how does the cylinder locate radially, so that the slot and the latch rod are in the correct position to engage with the trigger mechanism and the cocking lever assembly? Is that achieved by what looks like a flat machined on the outside diameter of the piston, opposite the aforementioned groove, that I have seen in photographs of the piston assembly?

Regarding the trigger block that screws into the barrel. I understand how to get it off and that there is a force against it from the spring. I have seen a few videos where people have used a variety of methods to combat this force while removing the trigger block. Some look pretty crude and some look a bit over the top. What I want to know is; when it comes to screwing it back into place on re-assembly, how does it stop and tighten up in the cylinder with the trigger block aligned perfectly with the barrel and cocking lever assembly?

Also, I have seen a few comments about the Mercury piston O-ring seal being a better option, as it is not such a tight fit as the standard Airsporter O-ring seal. Do you just use the Mercury O-ring in the Airsporter piston, or do you use the Mercury piston and O-ring?

Cheers,

Kev

No you use the Meteor O ring seal, the Mercury has the same innards as the Airsporter, the Mercury is the break barrel version of the Airsporter.