Quote Originally Posted by Kevev View Post
Hello again maximus.

I am going to be stripping my rifle down at some point this week and just wondered if you could help me with having a little more understanding of what I am about to encounter.

I am assuming that the piston assembly has a groove in the bottom, which the cocking assembly engages with in order to compress the spring and latch the piston rod to the trigger mechanism? If this is the case how does the cylinder locate radially, so that the slot and the latch rod are in the correct position to engage with the trigger mechanism and the cocking lever assembly? Is that achieved by what looks like a flat machined on the outside diameter of the piston, opposite the aforementioned groove, that I have seen in photographs of the piston assembly?

Regarding the trigger block that screws into the barrel. I understand how to get it off and that there is a force against it from the spring. I have seen a few videos where people have used a variety of methods to combat this force while removing the trigger block. Some look pretty crude and some look a bit over the top. What I want to know is; when it comes to screwing it back into place on re-assembly, how does it stop and tighten up in the cylinder with the trigger block aligned perfectly with the barrel and cocking lever assembly?

Also, I have seen a few comments about the Mercury piston O-ring seal being a better option, as it is not such a tight fit as the standard Airsporter O-ring seal. Do you just use the Mercury O-ring in the Airsporter piston, or do you use the Mercury piston and O-ring?

Cheers,

Kev
No you use the Meteor O ring seal, the Mercury has the same innards as the Airsporter, the Mercury is the break barrel version of the Airsporter.