Webley mk3

[Blackbaronfish]

A chap I know has a Wembley mk3 that’s started to shoot low at a 7 yard bell target. There is no more down adjustment left. Is there a way to sort this. The rifle hasn’t been dropped and doesn’t diesel.
It’s a .177 by the way.
What’s the standard out put for these and what pellets suit best. He was using the red tins of wasp pellets but they have all been used.
Love to know your thoughts guys.

BBF

[Josie & John]

Hi,

The rifle could be oversprung. If it's shooting too high, perhaps a weaker or cut down spring would reduce the recoil and drop the point of impact. It could also be the piston washer has perished and a replacement may make things smoother.

I find H&N FTT pellets work very well, as do flat heads such as Excites or Hobby but the latter are not suitable for bell target, so give the FTT a go.

Kind regards,

John

[WebleyWombler]

Surely to correct the sights on a gun that is shooting low, one must raise the rear sight, not lower it? What do you mean by 'no more down adjustment' please?

[Shed tuner]

try different pellets. often in a springer, slightly heavier pellets will shoot highter due to exiting later in the recoil cycle. also highrer start pressure pellets. lots of variables.

[Phil Russell]

As above plus I tend to think a first check is with a chrono, using any pellet in the 7.5 - 8.5 gn range. This could well tell you if the rifle is not up to standard ... bell target c 550 - 650fps (c 6ft lb) of if the rifle was expected to be higher power, say 700 - 750fps.

A rifle with a naff piston seal or breech seal could well perform as you describe, giving a much reduced fps.

Cheers, Phil

[Abasmajor]

Surely to correct the sights on a gun that is shooting low, one must raise the rear sight, not lower it? What do you mean by 'no more down adjustment' please?

Quite right, if shooting low the rear sight needs to be RAISED or the front sight LOWERED and the reverse if shooting high.

Brian

[Garvin]

If it was OK and has started shooting low for no apparent reason, you could give the bore a good clean before doing anything else.

[Blackbaronfish]

I’ve passed on all your thoughts and waiting to hear back.

Thanks

[Blackbaronfish]

The Webley is shooting high and slightly dieseling. So I think a new main leather seal is in order.
Any tips to look out for.

BBF

[Shed tuner]

The Webley is shooting high and slightly dieseling. So I think a new main leather seal is in order.
Any tips to look out for.

BBF

it might just need a damn good clean out / degrease...

[Geezer]

Old school would be dribble some 3-in-1 down the transfer port, then shoot 100 pellets and see how it’s doing. It might turn out fine.

[Blackbaronfish]

Yes I’m thinking of giving it a good clean and making a leather washer. 2mm leather and formed. What’s your secret recipe to get the perfect form.
Thanks for all the input by the way 😎

BBF

[Phil Russell]

If you have never stripped a MKIII before, have a read of Idiots Guide topic No.11. It might help.
Re leather washer making: In brief: assuming you have removed the old washer and still have the bits that attach it to the piston: I cut a leather disc that will be too big once fitted. I do not worry about it being a perfect circle. Then get a jubilee clip that will fasten around the piston. Treat leather disc with 'leather stretcher' (Isopropyl alcohol) sold to cure too tight shoes. Fasten disc to piston. Put jubilee clip on such that it begins to compress the outer edge of the disc around the piston. Slowly tighten the clip until the disc is the same diam as the piston but with a clear cup outer edge. Adding extra ipa can help. When about right, release clip a bit and upend piston and disc in neatsfoot oil. Let oil soak into leather for a day then begin tightening the clip again to form the cup. Try releasing the clip to see if a good cup has formed. Once it has, try fitting the cup in the cylinder. Hopefully it will be a good fit but it most often is too tight so you have to continue the compressing part a while longer. Once you have it right then you can use the outer rim of the clip as a guide to cut excess leather away ... but leave the edge proud of the end of the securing screw by about 2mm. Note that you will most likely have a recess around the new cup where it meets the piston end. The 'proud edge' will allow the new washer to compress to fill the recess while leaving the edge flush with the securing screw.
If the new washer is too tight, it is possible to reduce the od by careful use of 'wet and dry' used dry. but keep it clean before trying to refit for size. Persevere .. you can do it.
Good luck
Cheers, Phil

[Blackbaronfish]

Thanks very much for your time Phil it’s appreciate.

BBF

[T 20]

Yes I’m thinking of giving it a good clean and making a leather washer. 2mm leather and formed. What’s your secret recipe to get the perfect form.
Thanks for all the input by the way 😎

BBF

I think I have a spare piston with a good seal on it, Ray --- if I can find it you can have it.




All the best Mick