Help stripping and sorting a HW35k

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I’ll see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

Norm

[tinbum]

Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I’ll see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

Norm

If you watch the hw80 strip down video on the website it is essentially the same. The new 35 specific video will cover the spring room variation and how to work it out. This should save me an hour a week phone time.

Remove trigger, unscrew rear block 3/4 of the way and you should be able to "feel" any preload by wiggling the trigger block, or if you are an advanced student, poking a screwdriver into the spring coils and testing the pressure.

In honesty I would expect the spring to be rattling around in there by this point

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

If you watch the hw80 strip down video on the website it is essentially the same. The new 35 specific video will cover the spring room variation and how to work it out. This should save me an hour a week phone time.

Remove trigger, unscrew rear block 3/4 of the way and you should be able to "feel" any preload by wiggling the trigger block, or if you are an advanced student, poking a screwdriver into the spring coils and testing the pressure.

In honesty I would expect the spring to be rattling around in there by this point

Where about is the video for the Hw80 strip down ?

Not sure if I’m classed as an advanced student but I have stripped down an Original 66 and a 75 sorted them out including adjusting the mechanism to allow the 75 to fire. I did get quite a bit of help on here though

[tinbum]

Where about is the video for the Hw80 strip down ?

Not sure if I’m classed as an advanced student but I have stripped down an Original 66 and a 75 sorted them out including adjusting the mechanism to allow the 75 to fire. I did get quite a bit of help on here though

Unfortunately I can't provide links to help members, but a quick google of tinbum or tbt along with air guns should take you in the right direction

I have a youtube channel too, but that is full of silly, irrelevant nonsense! https://youtu.be/JiifU0Z-AVI

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Unfortunately I can't provide links to help members, but a quick google of tinbum or tbt along with air guns should take you in the right direction

I have a youtube channel too, but that is full of silly, irrelevant nonsense! https://youtu.be/JiifU0Z-AVI

Thanks Nick, I’ve just been watching some of your YouTube videos on stripping the 80 and also on short stroking, may I say they’re excellent, straight forward, easy to understand and in real time too which is nice, plus no silly music !!!

I think I now know where to start on the 35k

Cheers,

Norm

[bighit]

Did weihrauch at one point not fit square section springs ?

[tinbum]

Did weihrauch at one point not fit square section springs ?

They did and the date fits. They had a nice rounded edge and were an almost golden colour iirc

[evert]

Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I’ll see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

Norm

You can actually remove the rear block without removing the trigger, if you cock the trigger first.
The trigger must be cocked without cocking the mechanism, if that makes any sense. It is done by pushing p on the sear in front of the trigger housing. When this is done, just unscrew the rear block, and be careful with the preload the spring may be under.

[I. J.]

CAUTION The slot were the trigger unit fits can have razor sharp edges. A few mins dressing them down saves the digits. I also make sure the trigger retaining pins slide back nicely.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

CAUTION The slot were the trigger unit fits can have razor sharp edges. A few mins dressing them down saves the digits. I also make sure the trigger retaining pins slide back nicely.

Cheers I.J. That trigger slot is certainly sharp ! I carefully took an old car points file to the edges and it’s no longer a finger slicer

[TonyL]

That transfer port sounds mahoosive and will need sleeving down to (circa) 3.2 to 3.4mm?

Spring and guide kits? Tinbum, Welsh Willy or a V-Mach one from Lyn Lewington if he has any remaining? And I'd be replacing the piston and breech seals (which you had already mentioned) and the barrel shims for good measure.

[Shed tuner]

That transfer port sounds mahoosive and will need sleeving down to (circa) 3.2 to 3.4mm?

yup. I saw the huge TP marks on the end of the piston seal too - it's obviously slamming. Looks like 5mm - crazy.

It's long, so defo sleave it down to 3mm ish or it's always going to shoot horribly and with low power. Explains the recoil and harsh cycle too.

[TonyL]

Maybe also worth changing the barrel latch spring?

I wonder if those horizontal markings in the "wear groove" from the barrel latch on the cylinder end occurred due to striction in the latch? Good idea to clean that latch recess and lube. Not sure if that wear groove can be tidied a little somehow? I've never had to do it. Guessing one of our engineers will have......

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Maybe also worth changing the barrel latch spring?

I wonder if those horizontal markings in the "wear groove" from the barrel latch on the cylinder end occurred due to striction in the latch? Good idea to clean that latch recess and lube. Not sure if that wear groove can be tidied a little somehow? I've never had to do it. Guessing one of our engineers will have......

That transfer port sounds mahoosive and will need sleeving down to (circa) 3.2 to 3.4mm?

Spring and guide kits? Tinbum, Welsh Willy or a V-Mach one from Lyn Lewington if he has any remaining? And I'd be replacing the piston and breech seals (which you had already mentioned) and the barrel shims for good measure.

Hi Tony,
I’ve ordered up a tin bum maxi kit for it and I’ll change the breech seal as well I may need to cut down or compress the spring from the kit but that won’t be an issue.

It’s odd that the transfer port is so big, I measured it with callipers initially then found a 5mm drill and gently put the blunt end in, it goes in but not all the way through, does this mean the inside cylinder end is smaller

yup. I saw the huge TP marks on the end of the piston seal too - it's obviously slamming. Looks like 5mm - crazy.

It's long, so defo sleave it down to 3mm ish or it's always going to shoot horribly and with low power. Explains the recoil and harsh cycle too.

It’s certainly had recoil and needed a lot of effort to cock it, I did fire it when I picked it up and at about 10yrds into the side grain of a split piece of dried kindling log. The pellets were burying themselves right in so it certainly didn’t feel down on power !
I could’ve kicked myself for not running it over my combro now before I dismantled it

Looks like I’ve got a bit more work to do. It’s my first Weihrauch ( actually spelt it right there, you guys are obviously too polite to correct me ), and I was impressed with the build quality !

It’s my birthday today so fettling will cease until tomorrow as my sons coming over lunchtime and we’re round my daughters for a takeaway tonight

Thanks for all the help.

Norm