Best way to refinish a gun stock

[Logunner]

It depends on the current finish.

If it’s oil then strip it with meths and scotchbrite pads ( fine grade will do the job ), use a nylon brush on the chequering and then clean out with a tooth pick.

Let it dry for 24hrs, then steam any dings and if the gun is used there will be dings. Let it dry before sanding with scotchbrite pads, medium down to extra fine and then wash off with spirit.

If not staining then the first coat should be 50/50 of chosen oil and spirit, for me this is always Alkanet oil. Leave it 24hrs and then fill the grain using the alkanet oil and 1000grit wet n dry paper, dont wipe off the slurry just leave it 24hrs before buffing it off with lint free cloth. Check it over and see if any grain needs further filling, if not then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.

Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months. If you prefer a more satin finish then the last piece is to use xxxfine pumice powder to take the sheen back a little. She’ll be silky smooth if done well.

Tru-oil is hideous varnish that is only fit for bar tops in the local boozer, just my opinion…

[Segata]

Can't stand actual Varnish myself, I used to muck about with vintage radios and it loves to discolour and flake if exposed to the Sun over time which for a Rifle is pretty much whenever it's used.

[ashf9999]

My best tip is…take your time…

(As most would also agree).

If you have to go back to bare wood, Personally I’ve had best results from the CCL range of refinishing kits - nice that you can get the individual components as well. Be prepared to, if necessary, (as mentioned already) raise and sand back the grain, then ensure the grain is filled before you choose (if necessary) to stain it. This takes time and depends on the wood quality; the better quality being more tightly grained and in need of less prep. Palming in the oil/hardener does take many weeks to build up, but if done with patience will enhance any stock. I’ve also had success with the Napier kit.

[ToniD]

It depends on the current finish.

If it’s oil then strip it with meths and scotchbrite pads ( fine grade will do the job ), use a nylon brush on the chequering and then clean out with a tooth pick.

Let it dry for 24hrs, then steam any dings and if the gun is used there will be dings. Let it dry before sanding with scotchbrite pads, medium down to extra fine and then wash off with spirit.

If not staining then the first coat should be 50/50 of chosen oil and spirit, for me this is always Alkanet oil. Leave it 24hrs and then fill the grain using the alkanet oil and 1000grit wet n dry paper, dont wipe off the slurry just leave it 24hrs before buffing it off with lint free cloth. Check it over and see if any grain needs further filling, if not then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.

Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months. If you prefer a more satin finish then the last piece is to use xxxfine pumice powder to take the sheen back a little. She’ll be silky smooth if done well.

Tru-oil is hideous varnish that is only fit for bar tops in the local boozer, just my opinion…

If using Alkanet oil, do you use it during the whole process, or just for the first coat to achieve the colour then continue with Linseed oil?

Thanks.

Toni

[vestlenning]

If using Alkanet oil, do you use it during the whole process, or just for the first coat to achieve the colour then continue with Linseed oil?

During the whole process.

[ToniD]

During the whole process.

Thanks

[ToniD]

Does anyone know what coating they put on the HW 99s stock Please?

[Craig-P]

Does anyone know what coating they put on the HW 99s stock Please?

Lacquer, same as all factory beech stocks.

[ToniD]

Thanks, I'm new to this.

Toni

[greenwayjames]

Lacquer, same as all factory beech stocks.

Usually with a stain added to it.

[ToniD]

Then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.
Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months.

Has anyone tried buffing with a polishing mop, or could it burn and damage the stock?

I'm honestly not being lazy, just arthritic with nerve damage.

[4end]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

[leighvite]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

I to was trained in similar way there are so many unnecessary methods used, I have made my stock refurbs a little more robust by adding equal quantities of tung oil takes a little longer to dry but gives a great finish. The wood does not take very much oil to seal and then the oil sits on top and takes longer to dry, I have also added alkanet flakes to the oil to enhance the colour or some spirit stain, beware the alkanet flakes do not take long to emit the red stain and can easily be over done, Beech is more difficult because the grain is much closer and harder than walnut. I agree using this method it only takes a buff to polish up again.