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Thread: Stripping my s/h 0.22 Remington Express Compact

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  1. #1
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    cool, even 10g will help. if you can add a steel washer/disc weight so much the better, but try just the TH first.

    Don't over think the piston sleeve - just a rolled up tube (beer can, wd40 can, plastic bottle, ptfe sheet, whatever) stuffed in there will work perfectly for years. Spend the time you save adjusting your headstock bearings
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  2. #2
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    I've just bought a standard Express to have a tinker with.
    I'm following this thread with interest and hopefully the gun will be sweet when finished.
    I'll then pass it on to Emma's boyfriend, George, who will then have a gun of his own to enjoy the hobby with.
    Hopefully, he will then be as hooked as Emma and me.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtfreight View Post
    I've just bought a standard Express to have a tinker with.
    I'm following this thread with interest and hopefully the gun will be sweet when finished.
    I'll then pass it on to Emma's boyfriend, George, who will then have a gun of his own to enjoy the hobby with.
    Hopefully, he will then be as hooked as Emma and me.
    Excellent. Enjoy the project, Gary. I'm sure it will go well and the resulting rifle warmly welcomed by George.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- August 3/4, 2024.........BOING!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtfreight View Post
    I've just bought a standard Express to have a tinker with.
    I'm following this thread with interest and hopefully the gun will be sweet when finished.
    I'll then pass it on to Emma's boyfriend, George, who will then have a gun of his own to enjoy the hobby with.
    Hopefully, he will then be as hooked as Emma and me.
    Hi gtfreight, have a look at my last post and make sure you split the cocking link when reassembling it so you don’t do what I did

    Let us know how you get on, I’ll be interested to see if it’s lubed when you first strip it !

    I’ll put 50p and two chocolate HobNobs that it’s not

    Norm

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Fixit-Norm View Post
    Hi gtfreight, have a look at my last post and make sure you split the cocking link when reassembling it so you don’t do what I did

    Let us know how you get on, I’ll be interested to see if it’s lubed when you first strip it !

    I’ll put 50p and two chocolate HobNobs that it’s not

    Norm
    Thanks for the advice Norm. It's going to be a while before I open it up but I'll buy some Hobnobs before I do (any excuse for a Hobnob).

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtfreight View Post
    Thanks for the advice Norm. It's going to be a while before I open it up but I'll buy some Hobnobs before I do (any excuse for a Hobnob).
    It might be worth just taking the stock off and seeing if there’s any sign of lubrication, I certainly wouldn’t have shot mine had I known it was dry !

    Norm

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Fixit-Norm View Post
    It might be worth just taking the stock off and seeing if there’s any sign of lubrication, I certainly wouldn’t have shot mine had I known it was dry !

    Norm
    Hi Norm,

    I have just got it out of the bag for the first time and cocked it, it sounded dry when being cocked so I pulled the stock off (the front trigger screw was in solid), and you are right, it's as dry as a nun's chuff. I'm not even going to chrono it until next week when I'm off work and can spend some time on it.
    Here's a picture, the guide is still white.
    http://imgur.com/a/ZKmDOM3
    Last edited by gtfreight; 07-08-2021 at 06:50 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtfreight View Post
    Hi Norm,

    I have just got it out of the bag for the first time and cocked it, it sounded dry when being cocked so I pulled the stock off (the front trigger screw was in solid), and you are right, it's as dry as a nun's cuff. I'm not even going to chrono it until next week when I'm off work and can spend some time on it.
    Here's a picture, the guide is still white.
    http://imgur.com/a/ZKmDOM3
    I just can’t understand why they do that, it’s crazy I wonder how long they’d last in the hands of someone who didn’t know anything about greasing them ?

    I’ll let you off the hobnobs bet as I reckoned I was on to a dead cert anyway

    It’ll be interesting to see what it’s doing once it’s lubed up

    If it’s anything like mine there’ll be a fair bit of preload on it as well. If you need any info on the strip don’t hesitate to pm me, or even give me a call on PURUURIYIRO ( substitute the letters for numbers on a std qwerty keyboard ).

    I could probably strip mine in the dark now !

    Norm

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    cool, even 10g will help. if you can add a steel washer/disc weight so much the better, but try just the TH first.

    Don't over think the piston sleeve - just a rolled up tube (beer can, wd40 can, plastic bottle, ptfe sheet, whatever) stuffed in there will work perfectly for years. Spend the time you save adjusting your headstock bearings
    Yip.
    THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
    NEXT EVENT :- August 3/4, 2024.........BOING!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    cool, even 10g will help. if you can add a steel washer/disc weight so much the better, but try just the TH first.

    Don't over think the piston sleeve - just a rolled up tube (beer can, wd40 can, plastic bottle, ptfe sheet, whatever) stuffed in there will work perfectly for years. Spend the time you save adjusting your headstock bearings
    I fitted the top hat today and in doing so found when stripping the action that the spring seemed really tight in the external metal sprIng guide !

    Initially I thought that the spring was bent but having examined both it and the guide I found two issues. Firstly the spring did indeed have a very slight bend in it, just over 1/2 way along from the piston end. When I put a straight edge along it and slowly turned it there was a point where the ends were about 1mm away from the straight edge. I corrected this by very carefully bending it back

    Then I found a more serious issue, actually caused by me and this is something that may prevent another Remy stripper from getting the same issue !

    It turns out that when I was putting the barrel back on, I left the cocking link in one piece meaning that to get the hole lined up for the barrel axis pin I was putting the cocking linkages shoe in at an angle, pushing the breech against the locking ball and then the cocking link would go from angled to snapping into an inline position.

    What this was doing was pushing the end of the cocking shoe, which was quite square ended, into the thin piston liner and putting a thin line dent in it near the end !, three in fact . This was causing the spring to snag on the liner.

    In the end the only way I could sort it was to very carefully file the indents as flat as I dare with a fine half round file. This worked and with a straightened spring it then slid nicely in and out - phew !

    I also smoothed the end of the cocking shoe slightly as well.

    When putting it all back together I split the cocking arm where the pin with circlips goes through and was then able to assemble the action without damaging the piston sleeve. I then ran 27 ( I know I lost count ) FAP pellets over the chrono and this was the result.

    Ave. 580ft/ sec (10.0ftlbs), range 575 - 588ft/sec ( only one pellet at 588 so in reality 575 - 586 or 11ft / sec spread !! )

    It’s up on previous results ( ave 9.7ftlbs ) but the piston is still quite tight in the cylinder, I’m hoping with use it’ll ease a bit, which will probably put the power up a bit more.

    All in all a good afternoons work

    Norm

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