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Thread: Crosman Town & Country 107

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by --ped-- View Post
    the retainer is a press fit on the rifle types of this pump cup and is universal to all the 50's onward pumpers
    I replace the entire head with an o ring type and put the original in a box with others so that I can put back to original but tbh most of the seals on the ones I have are shot
    I have in the past made a conversion that screws onto the original but you need to machine the original
    what I would do is once the parachute seal is removed is try drilling the centre to the ally and try punch it off
    Thanks ped. That sounds like I've got myself into some trouble by cutting off the cup. If only I had just followed my gf's advice to come to bed earlier haha. Always listen to the lady...

    Do you mean that I could drill a hole in the side of the brass retaining nut, and then insert a metal rod, in order to have something to punch on, in order to take the nut off?

    I could also try some collets and mole grips, but I would have to make collets. Hmmm, this resealing is going to take a bit more time than anticipated, but I'll get there...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisvanhovell View Post
    Thanks ped. That sounds like I've got myself into some trouble by cutting off the cup. If only I had just followed my gf's advice to come to bed earlier haha. Always listen to the lady...
    I think this shows a greater issue; your airgun hobby is out of control? Gf or airguns?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    I think this shows a greater issue; your airgun hobby is out of control? Gf or airguns?
    Haha that is a hard one 45. In the end I might go for my airguns. No, gf. No, airguns! I have a problem? Maybe.

  4. #4
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    it's definitely pressed on as I've removed them in the past to convert the head to an o ring type
    I have some on my bench that I've removed from guns when I convert them to blow off pistons
    Tim Mac may have a video of how to remove as he does a press on o ring conversion for this type of piston

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by --ped-- View Post
    it's definitely pressed on as I've removed them in the past to convert the head to an o ring type
    I have some on my bench that I've removed from guns when I convert them to blow off pistons
    Tim Mac may have a video of how to remove as he does a press on o ring conversion for this type of piston
    Yessss!
    I did it.
    Thanks for all the advice gents.
    My mood has ameliorated with 10 points.
    Will start cleaning everything, and then during the weekend I'll probably have time to reseal and test.
    So the brass part was indeed pressed on. I had this idea whilst driving my bike back home from work through an Amsterdam park, that I could perhaps wedge a screwdriver under the brass part. I removed as much of the seal material in between the metal parts as I could, and then squeezed a small flat screwdriver head in, and started wriggling. It took about 10 minutes of wriggling, all around, and when it started to move, I used a slightly fatter screwdriver head, and then two screwdriver heads above each other.




  6. #6
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    Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

    Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?
    Last edited by 45flint; 14-12-2018 at 11:09 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

    Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?
    Yes, DT Fletcher is right! The pump head is a newer type. Someone did some repairs here... But not to worry, it works fine now!
    More re assembling later today hopefully, or tomorrow.





    Resealed check valve / exhaust valve assy:


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    Awesome! Interesting that they must have just changed to that type when they made yours? Or possibly the 1949 dating of the Kringle paint T&C sighted 101 is earlier than we thought? I know mine was brass on both parts and screwed in. Glad you got it apart.

    Looks like DT Fletcher on another forum says that this was not original, but a replacement? Would make sense given my 1949 101? He says it’s not rebuildable but can’t see why not now that you have it apart?
    Most anything is rebuildable, given enough time, effort, and the right parts. Back in the day, these pump assemblies were never rebuilt for the simple reason that Crosman didn't sell the individual pump cups. That was the basis of my statement. Today, with replacement pump cups, they can. Which, clearly, is (good) news to me. Same with the old 150/160/180 etc model exhaust valves, until Rick started sourcing the proper seals, these valves were considered non-rebuildable, but, today they are. Fortunately, I tended to keep these valves and had a coffee can of 'em which I proceeded to rebuild with parts from Rick.

    Like I said on the other forum, I would never rebuild one of these guns with that small check valve seat: it's unreliable and was replaced in production by Crosman with the large version.

    Pump adjustment: Per Crosman factory engineering, the pump is properly adjusted when the pump head presses firm against the air chamber and then just enough more so that the pump rod "over-toggles" which forces the pump head against the air chamber and hold the pump arm firmly in place. No other adjustment is (factory) acceptable.

    I never worried too much about the air hole. The pump head is not very effective when run in reverse and unless the pump arm is hard to open up, you probably don't have a air supply problem. In other words, don't use the air hole to determine pump arm adjustment.

    Didn't see what oil you're using. Most oils and all oils intended for spring guns, are not acceptable. I presume you're using Crosman oil, or MAC-1 Secret Sauce (I know the secret, if you're looking for a local source) or .....?
    Last edited by DT Fletcher; 17-12-2018 at 07:21 AM.

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