Original 35

[Drew451]

Welcome to the forum, Mark. The Original 35 is an excellent air rifle. If the guy was serious about bell target shooting the 35 may well have been de-rated intentionally. I have seen .177's as high as 11fpe but 9-10 is more typical of one in good health. My .177 35 is actually shooting at 7 and feels nice at that level. They handle brilliantly and are generally a very well mannered air rifle. Both of mine run leather and I would stick with that, rather than convert to any type of synthetic alternative. Try RWS Hobby and Meisterkugeln 7.0grain pellets to begin with.
If you like it, it will be worth attending to any cosmetics at a later date. The Birchwood Casey refinishing kit is a good product for the stock.

http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....t-Break-barrel

[in the shed]

Welcome to the forum, Mark. The Original 35 is an excellent air rifle. If the guy was serious about bell target shooting the 35 may well have been de-rated intentionally. I have seen .177's as high as 11fpe but 9-10 is more typical of one in good health. My .177 35 is actually shooting at 7 and feels nice at that level. They handle brilliantly and are generally a very well mannered air rifle. Both of mine run leather and I would stick with that, rather than convert to any type of synthetic alternative. Try RWS Hobby and Meisterkugeln 7.0grain pellets to begin with.
If you like it, it will be worth attending to any cosmetics at a later date. The Birchwood Casey refinishing kit is a good product for the stock.

http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....t-Break-barrel

Thanks for the help Drew, it's good to hear.

[junglie]

Welcome to the forum, Mark. The Original 35 is an excellent air rifle. If the guy was serious about bell target shooting the 35 may well have been de-rated intentionally. I have seen .177's as high as 11fpe but 9-10 is more typical of one in good health. My .177 35 is actually shooting at 7 and feels nice at that level. They handle brilliantly and are generally a very well mannered air rifle. Both of mine run leather and I would stick with that, rather than convert to any type of synthetic alternative. Try RWS Hobby and Meisterkugeln 7.0grain pellets to begin with.
If you like it, it will be worth attending to any cosmetics at a later date. The Birchwood Casey refinishing kit is a good product for the stock.

http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....t-Break-barrel

If the piston seal isnt damaged i'd give it a soak in a plastic bag overnight with hempseed oil or neatsfoot oil, the new leather seal i bought from chambers was rubbish, rock hard & didnt seal properly even after soaking, doubt it was even real leather tbh.

[johnbaz]

I wouldn't recommend taking a 35 apart as they have a trigger that is something of a b**ch to rebuild!!

I've a couple of 35's although the darker one is badged 'Gecado', A tradename for the Original guns that were destined for the U.S., Australia and South Africa!





The Original 35..




By the way, The early ones don't have a scope rail- Just open sights...


John

[vestlenning]

I've got a 1975 35, pics and info:

https://barx.org/airguns/?id=diana_35

[Geezer]

Agree on the piston seal. Keep it leather. First step is to try refurbishing the original (if needed).

[Drew451]

I've got a 1975 35, pics and info:

https://barx.org/airguns/?id=diana_35

Fine looking example. Nice website with some nice, interesting guns. Good work.

[PhatMan]

Hello to All,

My 0.177" Diana (Original) 35 makes a hair over 8 ft.lb.

It is very 'tired' externally, but internally is in fine shape.

It still has the original (yo-ho) leather piston seal.

Have fun

Best regards

Russ

[jonnyone]

I've got a 1975 35, pics and info:

https://barx.org/airguns/?id=diana_35

Hiya vestlenning.
That looks a fine looking gun. The stock refinish has been accomplished to a lovely finish.
I see you make reference to converting the leather seal to synthetic. Can I ask what seal you used for this and did you see any benefit?
Thanks
Dave

[vestlenning]

Hiya vestlenning.
That looks a fine looking gun. The stock refinish has been accomplished to a lovely finish.

Cheers!

I see you make reference to converting the leather seal to synthetic. Can I ask what seal you used for this and did you see any benefit?

I used this (or similar):

https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/sh...-35::2946.html

Wouldn't know the difference since the old leather seal was beyond repair but it works just fine now.

[in the shed]

Cheers!



I used this (or similar):

https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/sh...-35::2946.html

Wouldn't know the difference since the old leather seal was beyond repair but it works just fine now.

Can anyone tell me if the difference between the 35 & 35s is just cosmetic or are there internal differences?

[in the shed]

I wouldn't recommend taking a 35 apart as they have a trigger that is something of a b**ch to rebuild!!

I've a couple of 35's although the darker one is badged 'Gecado', A tradename for the Original guns that were destined for the U.S., Australia and South Africa!





The Original 35..




By the way, The early ones don't have a scope rail- Just open sights...


John

Lovely guns John, Have you refinished them? A great collection on your link as well.

[johnbaz]

Lovely guns John, Have you refinished them? A great collection on your link as well.

Hi There

The light coloured Original is still 'Original', As far as I know it's never been refinished..

The darker stocked Gecado was one of the last rifles I bought, The lad I got it from said the stock had been refinished at Custom stocks of Sheffield..


John

[MDriskill]

The 35 is a really nice rifle. Good size, excellent handling, very accurate and smooth. IMHO these older Dianas are generally underrated, especially here in the US.

The mainspring and piston seal in the guns are of absolute top quality. Unless the seal has been abused it may well be just fine with some fresh lube as already described.

I would also mention that the screw which secures the piston seal, is secured with a tiny blind pin across the front of the piston. Removing it requires turning the screw with enough force to shear the pin. You get the impression that the makers intended the seal to last the life of the gun.

The trigger is not too hard to remove IMHO, BUT you need to study up how it works first for sure! And use a spring compressor for control, otherwise you can end up dealing with some high-speed small parts.

[rapidresponse1]

great little rifles the 35s