Excellent, just what I wanted to see. If you want to avoid lighting flare from shinny surfaces, like your laminated diagram, try two light sources at 45 degrees to the optical axis of the camera lens.
Cheers Mike.
Excellent, just what I wanted to see. If you want to avoid lighting flare from shinny surfaces, like your laminated diagram, try two light sources at 45 degrees to the optical axis of the camera lens.
Cheers Mike.
I have read feedback on another site where someone suggested that I actually covered the process at times with my hands and the videos could stand being re done again with perhaps someone else helping out witht he camera so that I am showing the process all the time....
What are other peoples' thoughts ??
The diagram was blitzed by the light but the rest was easy enough to follow
them there springer's are soooooo addictive
Excellent vids again, Neil.
Yes, there were a couple of occasions where you were out of shot, but no worries! Would be much easier with a helper, I suppose.
Do any of the collective feel that there would be any benefit in polishing the sides of the various sears' flat surfaces and rubbing some dry moly powder in for an even smoother operation, or totally unnecessary?
As you say, Neil, just some very light machine oil for the lube, and small amount at that. Although the V-Mach moly oil seems very good.
THE BOINGER BASH AT QUIGLEY HOLLOW. MAKING GREAT MEMORIES SINCE 15th JUNE, 2013.
NEXT EVENT :- August 3/4, 2024.........BOING!!
I'm going to use some spray on moly on the pivot points making sure that the sear contacts are not touched only polished using the autosol .....also bought a new titan spring for the 80 as i don't like the packing under the spring
Better get an early start in the morning
Trouble finding a 2mm paralell punch so i'm having to use a centre punch and a pair of long nose pliers
them there springer's are soooooo addictive