Weihrauch help/advise required (35's)

[stevegv8]

Great info and help so far guys,

Thanks

Steve

[stevegv8]

I found time today to try and finish putting it together, can't imagine what I might have done wrong/if I done wrong but it's stiffer to cock than my 35E (longer barrel though so that might make the E feel easier) and also although it latches it kind of feels like only just, again not quite as with my 35E, feels like the notch in the rod could do with being another millimetre nearer the trigger unit.
I adjusted the trigger either side of how it started when it was in the old cylinder with the old piston but set it back to how it was before for now which feels nice.

It's got to bed in no doubt but I have loaded it up and given it a few good thumps too test if the sear would let off but no issues found.
I will cycle it a few dozen times and see how it goes.

The trigger guard isn't brass, I sand blasted the badly scratched black off and sprayed it gold hammerite seeing as there is gold lettering on the cylinder.

I put an old scope on for looks as I will scope it and leave the standard sights off (with a stock and trigger unit I just about have enough parts to resurrect the donor gun)!

Pretty sure I'll need to source a nicer stock next and might consider a silencer if anyone can suggest one that goes straight on with no modifications needed.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5VpjAcZ

[maximus]

Hi, if its only just latching and difficult to cock the spring could be becoming coil bound now as it looks like you have added a chambers top hat and guide. Might need a coil off the spring to resolve. Regards Max

[landymick]

Another thing to look at is the thickness of the guide base , often Chambers guides are too thick .

[stevegv8]

A little disappointing they didn't mention things like spring length etc considering it was a telephone order with some extended discussion.
He did mention when I said I was replacing the old leather washer type piston set up that he was glad I said so as he would need to machine an adjustment but I've no idea what that involved.
The new guide and top hat didn't seem to be tight at all but due to their end thickness the original spring must be compressed a little more than it used to be no doubt.
Again in my naivety I assumed I was ordering a standard replacement spring. I abandoned the new and stuck with the old as it needed at least 2 inches off (random guess) before trying then another coil, another coil etc etc.
Cutting, heating, forming, and grinding one coil at a time would get me down I'm afraid and I wanted to avoid that, I don't have a chrono either to see where it would be at each chop, just wanted a smooth action with safe power.
I could go back to the old guide and no top hat just to compare latch up as an experiment to help decide if the new ones are playing a part.
I suppose I could now chop the new one down to one coil length less than the old one as a start? Will have to think it through.

[stevegv8]

Ok so I was a bit miffed that when assembled it didn't feel at all positive latching up, needing a good snatch back to engage making me think it was a little short on cocking back far enough (having added a nylon spring guide was this an influence?). So it looked it like I'd need to re think what I'd done and maybe consider lopping a spring coil off in relation to some advice received above.

First though I wanted to see what the power was as a start point to measure changes if cutting the spring, so I got myself a chrono which was a new direction for me, never had or used one until now, I plink around with vintage after all.

Next was more initial disappointment as with some RWS Supermags power was around 8.5 ft-lb and yet the gun didn't feel lame.
Then I found I had mis typed the weight input as .6 grams when it was .53 but still concerned the power measured low I dug out some Premier hollowpoints at .51 grams noticing these were a little tighter to load, the figures were now way up with an average of 10.8
Then with Air arms diablo I have an average of 11.27 also latching up is getting a bit better too, so for now I'm going to continue letting it bed in and see what to do later on.

Also for a pellet test, my AA s400 which only has under 100 bar charged at the moment has over 1 ft-lb difference between the Rws supermags & the AA diablo's. So I could probably do with some further pellet trials because as an oldies collector/occasional plinker I've never worried too much about finding the ideal pellet per gun.

Thanks for the info and advice along the way.

[deejayuu]

Worth trying Exacts/Express

[Travis299]

Great info and help so far guys,

Thanks

Steve

I believe that folks would love to see pictures of your restoration project as I know I would.

Thanks

[stevegv8]

I believe that folks would love to see pictures of your restoration project as I know I would.

Thanks

The only three pics I took are on page 2 of the thread (link below) including it finished, the new cylinder & the new internals. I haven't taken any others yet as the stock is still the scruffy one from the original gun.

https://imgur.com/a/5VpjAcZ