Colt Peacemaker known issues?

[Aimstraight]

Sure someone will be along with some helpful explanation.

I have read (of other pistols) where the C02 bulb was not pierced adequately properly, such the first shot was good, second (very soon after) not so good.
Have you tried both fast and slow shots to see if it could be this? What about a fault with the safety, not fully coming off such that the valve is not struck adequately/reliably? Just some initial thoughts.

[Sniper Pete]

Sure someone will be along with some helpful explanation.

I have read (of other pistols) where the C02 bulb was not pierced adequately properly, such the first shot was good, second (very soon after) not so good.
Have you tried both fast and slow shots to see if it could be this? What about a fault with the safety, not fully coming off such that the valve is not struck adequately/reliably? Just some initial thoughts.

I've tried all sorts Aimstraight, and I can't make sense of it.

I've got it all packaged up for collection now, but I don't think it's either of your suggestions. I'll leave it for the gunsmith to sort out now, but thanks any way.

I was just asking to see if anyone had heard of this happening, or had it happen to their own Peacemaker. Sometimes these things can be a known issue, such as with the bb version of the same gun and barrel fault. which I know has been quite common in the past.
I wouldn't normally bother but to have the SAME fault twice with the same gun struck me as highly unusual.

[Aimstraight]

Suggest you update this thread with the diagnosis by the gunsmith, it might help others.

A potential issue could be the cylinder indexing not working as well as it should. I realize the pistol is all parceled up now, but for future reference (e.g. when it is returned to you) you could check that out. With NO C02 bulb in the pistol and no pellets loaded, indexing the cylinder (with the hammer), should cause the cylinder/shells to line up precisely with the barrel (this can be viewed with a torch down the barrel - NO C02 ).

Some of the Umerex 8 shot rotary magazine pistols can succumb to a fault whereby the magazine/pellet do not line precisely with the barrel, result is the first few shots are good, the following shots go 'phut' as the pellet strikes the edge of the barrel. Seems feasible that this type of problem might occur on any indexing cylinder gun.

[Sniper Pete]

Suggest you update this thread with the diagnosis by the gunsmith, it might help others.

A potential issue could be the cylinder indexing not working as well as it should. I realize the pistol is all parceled up now, but for future reference (e.g. when it is returned to you) you could check that out. With NO C02 bulb in the pistol and no pellets loaded, indexing the cylinder (with the hammer), should cause the cylinder/shells to line up precisely with the barrel (this can be viewed with a torch down the barrel - NO C02 ).

Some of the Umerex 8 shot rotary magazine pistols can succumb to a fault whereby the magazine/pellet do not line precisely with the barrel, result is the first few shots are good, the following shots go 'phut' as the pellet strikes the edge of the barrel. Seems feasible that this type of problem might occur on any indexing cylinder gun.

Yes, I will let people know the result, if they tell me. [The last time it went back to the retailer, who in turn returned it to their supplier (Armex?), so when I got it back nobody could tell me what the problem was!]

It's not really possible for me to see properly down the barrel as, being a revolver where the rotary chamber doesn't swing out really limits visibility. Then there is the cartridge ejector mechanism. It's not as straightforward as a pistol with an 8 shot magazine would be.

I get the best idea if things are lining up when I open the shell loading gate and gently move the cylinder back and forth. But that's quite loose at the best of times.
If there are no shells loaded in the cylinder it doesn't give me any better view of the area where the "next to be fired" shell sits. Trying to see the part of the revolver where things may not be marrying up and seating correctly/indexing is really difficult. It is probably only possible with the revolver in bits, I don't know.

I haven't a clue when I'll get it back. It's not even going to be collected until the weekend after this coming weekend. Then it will be sent on to the supplier (Armex?). They do whatever they do, and then it gets returned to the dealer, and after up to another 10-14 days after THAT I should get it back. I reckon between one and two months, being a pessimist!

[zippy]

I've had similar issues with mine. It boils down to 3 issues. The first is variation in the cartrige seals. Some are too loose a fit, - some too tight. To overcome this, I made a brass pusher tool,. This tool is just a shouldered brass tapered pin to countersink the pellet in the cartridge. No more pellets left in cartridges and tighter groups!

Then it started happening again, but much worse! This time no gas most of the time, other times the gun would jam in the half cocked position on squeezing the trigger. Apart it came....

First fault was there were still casting flash/burrs on the trigger sear. Also the end wasn't finished square. Half an hr with a swiss file fixed that.

On reassembly I found I had a smooth, light consistent trigger. Only problem was it now dropped into the halfcock position every time.


Apart it came - Again!
After an inspection of the tumbler end of the hammer, I found the halfcock notch to be quite open and the belly of the base of the hammer bulged out, - ensuring the tumbler caught the sear in halfcock position. Turns out some wally had been spinning my gun on their finger in half cock position and also squeezing the trigger with the hammer halfcocked!! ( I was away making some tea)
The remedy was gentle light tapping on the belly with a toffee hammer and a piece of leather to close the sear notch up a little, followed by a little filing of the tumbler belly. Relube and reassemble. The action is now smoother than when it was new, the groups are tighter and the velocity is up.
Sorted!

[zippy]

Just to be clear to the OP, the point I was trying to make is - your problem might be overly tight seals in SOME of your cartridges/oversized pellet skirts. A pellet pusher will solve both these problems. Alternatively you might have a subtly bulged halfcock notch in the tumbler, which may be acting as a brake on the trigger sear, slowing the hammer fall, resulting in a light strike on the valve. Rather than grabbing the sear and jamming in the halfcock position. Both are easy fixes.

[Sniper Pete]

I've had similar issues with mine. It boils down to 3 issues. The first is variation in the cartrige seals. Some are too loose a fit, - some too tight. To overcome this, I made a brass pusher tool,. This tool is just a shouldered brass tapered pin to countersink the pellet in the cartridge. No more pellets left in cartridges and tighter groups!

Then it started happening again, but much worse! This time no gas most of the time, other times the gun would jam in the half cocked position on squeezing the trigger. Apart it came....

First fault was there were still casting flash/burrs on the trigger sear. Also the end wasn't finished square. Half an hr with a swiss file fixed that.

On reassembly I found I had a smooth, light consistent trigger. Only problem was it now dropped into the halfcock position every time.


Apart it came - Again!
After an inspection of the tumbler end of the hammer, I found the halfcock notch to be quite open and the belly of the base of the hammer bulged out, - ensuring the tumbler caught the sear in halfcock position. Turns out some wally had been spinning my gun on their finger in half cock position and also squeezing the trigger with the hammer halfcocked!! ( I was away making some tea)
The remedy was gentle light tapping on the belly with a toffee hammer and a piece of leather to close the sear notch up a little, followed by a little filing of the tumbler belly. Relube and reassemble. The action is now smoother than when it was new, the groups are tighter and the velocity is up.
Sorted!

Zippy,

Thanks for your response.
None of my guns has ever been used by anyone likely to mistreat them. Just me and the gunsmith!

I treat all my guns respectfully. They are all as good as new (when I bought them). They've NEVER been used outdoors, nor in the wet; not dropped, just fired and cleaned lightly occasionally.

That's why I'm a bit narked. This shouldn't be happening, and for the second time! The reason I posted this thread being I was trying to see if it was a known fault, because I cannot see that I'm doing anything to cause this once, let alone twice!
One way or another it will hopefully be repaired (and not do it for the third time).

"you might have a subtly bulged halfcock notch in the tumbler" (sounds painful!)

[zippy]

Zippy,

Thanks for your response.
None of my guns has ever been used by anyone likely to mistreat them. Just me and the gunsmith!

I treat all my guns respectfully. They are all as good as new (when I bought them). They've NEVER been used outdoors, nor in the wet; not dropped, just fired and cleaned lightly occasionally.

That's why I'm a bit narked. This shouldn't be happening, and for the second time! The reason I posted this thread being I was trying to see if it was a known fault, because I cannot see that I'm doing anything to cause this once, let alone twice!
One way or another it will hopefully be repaired (and not do it for the third time).

I'm very careful with my stuff - and I was extremely narked! However looking inside one of these things was a revelation. The design is brilliant, the materials indifferent, the assembly workmanship - shoddy. I think all the SAAs are born with problems or potential problems, Just because the manufacturers wont spend anything on quality control and internal finish. This goes for most of the replica BB/ pellet firers. They all need a proper lube and polish as a bare minimum. You always need 1 boffin/Toymaker in your clan if you want to shoot rep's!

[Aimstraight]

If it is a potential problem with pellet skirt/seating, you may want to ask the gunsmith what pellets were used to test fire it before they returned it to you....which ones pass their test.

Skirt diameters vary, I remember measuring up Geco and Hobby in the past, I put the numbers on here somewhere; think Geco were slightly smaller. A smaller pellet might not necessarily help if the cartridges vary too (e.g. too loose fit). Zippy seems to have found the answer with a pellet seater.