Halloween Boinger Bash 2018 --- Event and Payment Details

[CapitalBee]

I may do a little demonstration at the next Bash if there's enough interest, Mark.

But in the meantime I've found out that you have to remove all the variables from the process to get the best results.

I've stopped trying to fume blue in acid fumes as it's a bit hit and miss and I now use an Amonium Chloride/Water solution painted on the metal to rust it.

Once painted with Amonium Chloride I place the piece in my thermostatically controlled damp box which I keep turned on for the duration of the bluing process so that it always remains at a constant temperature.

With this setup I can form rust on a piece in three hours, so I can easily work my day round the rusting and carding.


The only other tip I can give is if you build a boiling tank using a 3KW immersion heater element then a tank capacity of 6-7 Litres of water seems about idea even though it takes 15 minutes to reach boiling point.




All the best Mick

Mick,

I've been following what you're doing and been researching the web. Some interesting stuff came up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c
A bit dry, but interesting if you're not doing high tensile stuff

http://www.rustblue.com/msds/

Interesting concept for a steamer rather than a boiling tank

[T 20]

Mick,

I've been following what you're doing and been researching the web. Some interesting stuff came up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c
A bit dry, but interesting if you're not doing high tensile stuff

http://www.rustblue.com/msds/

Interesting concept for a steamer rather than a boiling tank

I think I've watched and read everything I can on the subject as well, Mark, I've even watched a lot of Rat Rod programs on how to rust your car --- most of these lads also use Hydrogen Peroxide mixed with salt to rust their car panels.

I think the trick is to find something simple that works for you and stick with it, right now the Amonium Chloride solution is working well for me along with the damp box and boiling tank.

Yes the steaming setups do look good but I like to boil an action for half an hour to degrease it before painting an oxidiser on it.

One thing I've found out today is DON'T put Danish oil on fresh bluing instead of boiled Linseed oil in an effort to speed the process up, Danish oil strips the bluing off --- bugger.

So everything I'm working on has had to be degreaser again and is now back in the damp box to rust again.




All the best Mick

[CapitalBee]

Well, first attempts haven't come out too bad. The clamp was my first attempt and I prep'd the surfaces. The items just out of the oil bath, I left as they were, with surface rust already developed. However, you can see it in the finished articles.



Finished clamp and one of the original pieces, yet to be blued.



Just out of a 24 hr soak in the oil



Last item awaiting the treatment.

At the moment, I'm governed by size of components and my available kit.

[TonyL]

Lovely; keep it going my good fellows.

[CapitalBee]

Paint stripper and a bit of bleach.




I've just got to decide how to finish it now.

[NewPaul]

One thing I've found out today is DON'T put Danish oil on fresh bluing instead of boiled Linseed oil in an effort to speed the process up, Danish oil strips the bluing off --- bugger. :mad




All the best Mick

Mmm, folk use Danish Oil for stocks don’t they ? Is this something to beware of when oiling a stock and refitting the action or, is it because the bluing was fresh Mick ?

[T 20]

Mmm, folk use Danish Oil for stocks don’t they ? Is this something to beware of when oiling a stock and refitting the action or, is it because the bluing was fresh Mick ?

I've no idea, Paul, the Longdog was finally blued yesterday at 12 O'clock so I dropped it in kerosene for 24 hours to neutralise the acids.
When it came out the kerosene today it looked like a brand new action due to the high gloss from being wet so I thought I'd try to keep that look by using Danish oil instead of the usual Boiled linseed oil --- big mistake the bluing went variegated.

Now the big trick I've found with this here rust bluing is don't panic, so I simply boiled the action to degrease it, coated it with Amonium Chloride and put it back in the damp box --- and I've just got in from boiling and carding it and it's looking much better.

That's actually another bonus with rust bluing, if you scratch your barrel or action you can just coat that part in Amonium Chloride and rust and boil out the scratch until it's black again.

[Bluefan]

A demo would be ace Mick having just acquired a pre rusted superstar and a silver goldstar I'll need to figure out the a finish for them as Mr Molloy has hung up his safety specs
I'd still like to see it done even if I opt for the builders fav ..... hammerite