Help stripping and sorting a HW35k

[tinbum]

I have an Hw35 arriving soon and it's first job will be to star in a strip-down video. If you're not sorted by then please watch the vid and ring me if needed. Or just ring over the weekend if you are terminally bored, it's quite possible there is very little preload and that is the cause of the twang

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

It looks like an Ox spring. To be honest, I wouldn't even use one of those as a gate closer. Definitely use a spring compressor when you strip it. The record trigger has to be removed by drifting out the two cross pins, make sure you keep a finger on the safety button when you remove it as it can spring out and get lost.

Neil

Thanks for the info Neil, I suspected an Ox spring when I saw the cross section but wasn’t sure if any others were like that. I think that’s probably why the cocking effort is so hard !

I have an Hw35 arriving soon and it's first job will be to star in a strip-down video. If you're not sorted by then please watch the vid and ring me if needed. Or just ring over the weekend if you are terminally bored!

Haha, thanks for that even if I start I’d still like to see that video ! Out of interest do you do any of your famous tuning kits for one of these ?
I’m guessing at the very least it’ll need a new spring, better spring guide and possibly a top hat !

Norm

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I’ll see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

Norm

[tinbum]

Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I’ll see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

Norm

If you watch the hw80 strip down video on the website it is essentially the same. The new 35 specific video will cover the spring room variation and how to work it out. This should save me an hour a week phone time.

Remove trigger, unscrew rear block 3/4 of the way and you should be able to "feel" any preload by wiggling the trigger block, or if you are an advanced student, poking a screwdriver into the spring coils and testing the pressure.

In honesty I would expect the spring to be rattling around in there by this point

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

If you watch the hw80 strip down video on the website it is essentially the same. The new 35 specific video will cover the spring room variation and how to work it out. This should save me an hour a week phone time.

Remove trigger, unscrew rear block 3/4 of the way and you should be able to "feel" any preload by wiggling the trigger block, or if you are an advanced student, poking a screwdriver into the spring coils and testing the pressure.

In honesty I would expect the spring to be rattling around in there by this point

Where about is the video for the Hw80 strip down ?

Not sure if I’m classed as an advanced student but I have stripped down an Original 66 and a 75 sorted them out including adjusting the mechanism to allow the 75 to fire. I did get quite a bit of help on here though

[tinbum]

Where about is the video for the Hw80 strip down ?

Not sure if I’m classed as an advanced student but I have stripped down an Original 66 and a 75 sorted them out including adjusting the mechanism to allow the 75 to fire. I did get quite a bit of help on here though

Unfortunately I can't provide links to help members, but a quick google of tinbum or tbt along with air guns should take you in the right direction

I have a youtube channel too, but that is full of silly, irrelevant nonsense! https://youtu.be/JiifU0Z-AVI

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Unfortunately I can't provide links to help members, but a quick google of tinbum or tbt along with air guns should take you in the right direction

I have a youtube channel too, but that is full of silly, irrelevant nonsense! https://youtu.be/JiifU0Z-AVI

Thanks Nick, I’ve just been watching some of your YouTube videos on stripping the 80 and also on short stroking, may I say they’re excellent, straight forward, easy to understand and in real time too which is nice, plus no silly music !!!

I think I now know where to start on the 35k

Cheers,

Norm

[evert]

Neil, am I right in thinking that having carefully drifted out those two pins the end section of the action unscrews ? If it does I’ll see if I can rig up something using a large sash clamp, suitably padded of course

Norm

You can actually remove the rear block without removing the trigger, if you cock the trigger first.
The trigger must be cocked without cocking the mechanism, if that makes any sense. It is done by pushing p on the sear in front of the trigger housing. When this is done, just unscrew the rear block, and be careful with the preload the spring may be under.

[I. J.]

CAUTION The slot were the trigger unit fits can have razor sharp edges. A few mins dressing them down saves the digits. I also make sure the trigger retaining pins slide back nicely.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

CAUTION The slot were the trigger unit fits can have razor sharp edges. A few mins dressing them down saves the digits. I also make sure the trigger retaining pins slide back nicely.

Cheers I.J. That trigger slot is certainly sharp ! I carefully took an old car points file to the edges and it’s no longer a finger slicer

[TonyL]

That transfer port sounds mahoosive and will need sleeving down to (circa) 3.2 to 3.4mm?

Spring and guide kits? Tinbum, Welsh Willy or a V-Mach one from Lyn Lewington if he has any remaining? And I'd be replacing the piston and breech seals (which you had already mentioned) and the barrel shims for good measure.