Do the insides of the cases need to be clean?
I find a bit of carbon in the necks gives me more consistent seating pressure which must translate to more consistent neck tension, surely?
Do the insides of the cases need to be clean?
I find a bit of carbon in the necks gives me more consistent seating pressure which must translate to more consistent neck tension, surely?
"An infinite number of monkeys banging away at type writers for an infinite period of time will eventually reproduce Hamlet" Thanks to discussion forums we now know this to be untrue.
My thoughts were that factory loaded cases would have been clean brass inside but I haven't got enough knowledge to know what difference the carbon build up will make. I like the idea of the dirt being rinsed away instead of accumulating in the tumbler media and also the primer pockets being cleaned at the same time. I've googled rock tumblers and ultra sonic cleaners and will give both more thought, not sure about sizes of either that I will need.
I used to use a US cleaner to get the spotless, eventually got bored of rinsing, drying, etc.
Now I tumble to clean up the outside ( notionally to stop the inside of my dies getting scratched) and have found bugger all difference in group size.
I haven't done a ES/SD velocity test but that would seem to be the way to set the issue aside one way or another.
"An infinite number of monkeys banging away at type writers for an infinite period of time will eventually reproduce Hamlet" Thanks to discussion forums we now know this to be untrue.
Makes hardly any difference if the insides are spotless but I prefer to clean the inside of the neck with a bristle brush so everything is consistent.
Shooting game or at our target ranges what we do in case prep is adequate it's the top league boys who try to make every made up round 100% identical.....they seem to forget they is still the idiot factor behind the trigger lol
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
After watching video clips I went and bought an ultrasonic cleaner. Looks about same size as one shown. Tried it out this afternoon and very pleased with results. Benefits as I see: Only 12 minutes to clean 50 cases. Primer pockets all cleaned out. Drawbacks: Rinsing and drying cases although this didn't take much time or effort as put in airing cupboard to dry out. Thanks for help, this does all I need for now.
Unless they're encrusted or grossly dirty, the cleanliness of the cases has very little - if any - real effect on the performance of reloads.
The only justification for going OTT on case cleaning is if you've a fetish for shiny things...
...history... is, indeed, little more than the register of the crimes, follies, and misfortunes of mankind. (Edward Gibbon: Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire)
Not really, I know some one who never cleaned the cases of his .357 or his .44 mag in the 15 years I know he was shooting those guns, he was well known for using pretty high loads (the safe side of high) and cannot have had more than 50 split cases (for .357 & .44 due to reloading fatigue of expanding and crimping) some of the cases had been reloaded over 30 times, all he did was clean the primer pocket and every so often check case length and debur.
Shiny brass is purely a cosmetic thing (out side at least) as long as they are clean (no grit or any thing) they will cycle from the mag into the chamber smooth as shiny brass.
Reloading powders are formulated to burn as clean as posable so carbon should be minimal, as long as the primer flash hole is clear and there's no obvious heavy carbon deposits then all should be well, every so often just turn the case upside down and give it a few taps on a bit of wood to knock loose carbon deposits out.
On a slightly difrent note, I have a tumbler and been very hard up for cash, I wash the walnut media, get a very fine mesh strainer (I was govern a big mixing bowl size one) clean the media in small batches, fill a bucket with water and 1/2 fill the strainer with media and place in the bucket overnight, at this point do not agitate, the media swells as it absorbs water, very fine bits and carbon will fall through, next morning agitate the soaked media while suspended in water, keep checking the water and change when black, as said very fine media will have fallen through, don't worry about it, after a few water changes it should be nearly clear, leave the media to drain in the strainer, when no more water drips out transfer to a old rosting tin and leave in a very warm place to dry out, this way the media lasts a lot longer and you only have to top up with new media.
Yes I'm sad and have a lot of time to kill
"Men occasionally stumble on the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened" Winston Churchill
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