Thanks Guy, I am sure you have seen a few of these over the years. The 'O' ring tip is good because I havent got a lathe to go the whole hog with the parachute seal.
Do you know any breech bolts and nuts that will fit off another rifle?
Thanks Guy, I am sure you have seen a few of these over the years. The 'O' ring tip is good because I havent got a lathe to go the whole hog with the parachute seal.
Do you know any breech bolts and nuts that will fit off another rifle?
Well, I can't resist commenting on a Hawk thread. I've always liked the Hawk, although, I'm very aware of all its short-comings. I think you're right in saying the Hawk was built down to a price, but Webley compromised in the wrong areas. The rifle had lovely bluing, as you say, it was really well presented in its packaging, the sights were micro adjustable and it had an automatic trigger safety; on the face of it, The Hawk had all the ingredients for a great sporting air rifle, unfortunately some of the components, materials and manufacturing procedures seem to have been lacking.
Was the Hawk made on the back of a drop in company profits? Did it cause a drop off in profits? I don't know, but with the number of times my own Hawk MkII went back to the factory, and the number of broken rear sights and cracked fore sights I've experienced, I'm pretty sure the Hawk was responsible for some loss of reputation.
The reason my dad bought me a Webley for my 11th birthday was the reputation the company had for workmanship and quality. When the rifle broke within 18 months of buying it (trigger housing weld), he was sorely disappointed, and remarked on it none too politely.
The South of England has 2 good things, the M1 and the A1. Both will take you to Yorkshire.
Ok---here I am in an unheated kitchen on the big old desk top and my fingers are turning purple----_BUT! Here are my thoughts on how to go about what you want to achieve.
Firstly I am pretty sure the front stock bolts are unc thread (without checking), so if you measure them, you should be able to get a few cap heads to replace the phillips head things (I think they made those screws triangular as some sort of way of stopping them coming undone?). Secondly, If you can find or make a nut to slip/glue/solder into the trigger housing, you can use a slightly longer rear stock screw that isn't held by about 3 1/2 threads!
Reguarding the cocking arm pivot being a roll pin, I would leave it unless you are really bothered by it. You could replace it with a peened over solid pin (Like the Cadet/Major), which would be a pain if you wanted to remove it, or tap a thread on one side of the hole and find a bolt to fit. To fit a lock screw would be a pain, so I'd just use threadlock on it.
The elongated cylinder pin hole. I know some idiot with bad arms who filed out the cylinder hole and and end cap and fitted a pin from a Bsa Meteor. Doing it with a drill woulrd be easier. I used a Meteor pin as I had one.
Right--the barel pivot bolt. This is mainly ideas and guess work. The pin seems to be 1/4 inch in diameter so you could get a 1/4 inch shanked cheese head bolt and then get someone to turn down a bit of round bar and tap it to the right thread, then put a saw cut in the head for using a forked screwdriver. You would have to enlarge either side of the breech jaws to take the screw head/nut (Needing a flat bottomed hole). I am not sure if the Mercurys with the bolt were the same size as earlier Mercurys. If so, then one of those should fit, but you would need the hole under the bolt head to be just over 2mm deeper as the Webley breech block is that much thicker than the Bsa one. I would ask on here for a Hawk My 3 Cylinder (broken would do) and tinker/ weigh it up before making a mess of yours.
Good luck
Just having a further think on this, I would guess that a breech bolt off an Omega would be the right diameter, but you would need somebody to make you a top hat insert of the right thread, to go into the right hand breech jaw, plus the left one recessing for the bolt head.
If you had a bolt of the right diameter, with a shank on it, you could always cut/file slots in the stock around the pivot pin, stick long bolt through and tighten up with a nut and washer-------------but that would only be to give you an idea of whether to proceed with something else. If you made a neat enough job of it it would me you could nip up the breech without having to take the action out of the stock.
Last edited by ggggr; 17-01-2018 at 10:24 AM.
Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"
Thanks Guy, lots of good suggestions there.