Low power reload

[harrysmith]

I want to make a really low power 38sp load for quietness. My question is how low can I go without encountering problems eg bullet stuck in barrel?

I've got Herco and Blue dot btw

[loiner1965]

I want to make a really low power 38sp load for quietness. My question is how low can I go without encountering problems eg bullet stuck in barrel?

I've got Herco and Blue dot btw

have you tried the min powder charge for each powder?

[kennyc]

I want to make a really low power 38sp load for quietness. My question is how low can I go without encountering problems eg bullet stuck in barrel?

I've got Herco and Blue dot btw

you can't, minimum load or look forward to your gunsmith putting pictures of your sectioned barrel all over Facebook

[tacfoley]

Guns go bang , it's in their very nature to do so.

It's when they go 'phut' that the problems begin.

You are NEVER going to get a 'quiet' revolver - way too many holes for the gas to escape from. Unless you have a Nagant...

[loiner1965]

might be a .357 underlever and he wants to use .38 specials etc

[verminatormjc]

I download .44mag using Unique powder, 8.4gr with a 240gn gm head

[DesG]

I’ve been obsessed with silencers and quiet loads for years so I will base my answer on my own experience rather than folklaw. You need a really fast powder such as bullseye with around 2gn but be very careful that they are leaving the barrel. Until you get consistency with the loads you need to check the barrel every shot. Some of the cowboy action loads are about as low as you’re likely to get. I experimented with a mod on my 38 u/l many years back and got it down to around unmodded 22rf but really the hole is just too big. I’m shooting in the garden as we speak with my fully modded 22 little badger (open ticket, big garden) and the only sound is the bullet hitting the backstop.

[loiner1965]

i downloaded my 308 for my partner to work up to full loads on with h4895 and trailboss powders.
it was no more noiser than an unmodded .22.
we gradually upped the power to just around 2000 fps but she didnt like it lol
these were documented loads and tested etc

[DesG]

I just tried it. 2gn bullseye (22 short case) Small pop, penetrated a bit of decking no prob. 1gn bullseye, 3” up the barrel and stuck.

Draw your own conclusions.

[Turnup]

I’ve been obsessed with silencers and quiet loads for years so I will base my answer on my own experience rather than folklaw. You need a really fast powder such as bullseye with around 2gn but be very careful that they are leaving the barrel. Until you get consistency with the loads you need to check the barrel every shot. Some of the cowboy action loads are about as low as you’re likely to get. I experimented with a mod on my 38 u/l many years back and got it down to around unmodded 22rf but really the hole is just too big. I’m shooting in the garden as we speak with my fully modded 22 little badger (open ticket, big garden) and the only sound is the bullet hitting the backstop.

Agree with DesG on this. I have been using the traditional 2.5 to 2.7 grains of Accurate #2 (similar to Bullseye in speed) for target loads in .38 spl and that is way less than the manufacturer's starting load. As DesG says, just be sure that the bullet has left the barrel before firing the next one and as you reduce loads clearly bullets not leaving the barrel is too low so that establishes the floor but leave a bit of a margin for the working load. You might find that the quietest load is not the most accurate.

Interested to hear where you end up with this - particularly if you can chrono them.

[harrysmith]

Thanks guys. I should have said for use in a Rossi 92.

[DesG]

Agree with DesG on this. I have been using the traditional 2.5 to 2.7 grains of Accurate #2 (similar to Bullseye in speed) for target loads in .38 spl and that is way less than the manufacturer's starting load. As DesG says, just be sure that the bullet has left the barrel before firing the next one and as you reduce loads clearly bullets not leaving the barrel is too low so that establishes the floor but leave a bit of a margin for the working load. You might find that the quietest load is not the most accurate.

Interested to hear where you end up with this - particularly if you can chrono them.

If I go to the club to check security during the week (some little scrote unscrewed the outdoor tap yesterday just for the fun of it, water everywhere. Didn't notice the cctv) I will borrow the chrono and work up some quiet loads.

[harrysmith]

If I go to the club to check security during the week (some little scrote unscrewed the outdoor tap yesterday just for the fun of it, water everywhere. Didn't notice the cctv) I will borrow the chrono and work up some quiet loads.

Great, don't forget, I've only got Bullseye and Herco.

[DesG]

Great, don't forget, I've only got Bullseye and Herco.

Also be aware, as I've just been reminded, of the phenomina of flashover. I've never seen it or even met anyone who's seen it, but apparently it does exist. If a light charge is distributed along a large case and the primer flash ignites the whole lot at once, rather than passing the fire from grain to grain, it can build up a huge pressure peak and blow up the gun. In Rifle cases people often use kapok or tissue on top of a light charge to prevent this.

[Daryll]

Also be aware, as I've just been reminded, of the phenomina of flashover. I've never seen it or even met anyone who's seen it, but apparently it does exist. If a light charge is distributed along a large case and the primer flash ignites the whole lot at once, rather than passing the fire from grain to grain, it can build up a huge pressure peak and blow up the gun. In Rifle cases people often use kapok or tissue on top of a light charge to prevent this.

I've always considered this an "urban myth".... you said yourself, you, or anyone else you know, has never seen it... and all those of us who used to shoot 2.7 gns of BE back in the day never had a problem with it....