HW35 With Rotating Piston

[arnie2b]

Well it may look great, Donald, but I've not had much success in rusting with it using acid fumes.

Strangely, using hydrochloric brick cleaning acid the metal struck black in the cabinet but never actually produced red rust. --- This black never got any thicker over ten sessions in the fume cabinet.

So today I changed tack and gave up with the fume bluing and changed to rust bluing, by turning the heat up in the cabinet and putting a pellet tin full of water inside it became a damp box.
I'm now using a saturated water/Ammonium Chloride solution to coat the metal before placing in the fume cabinet to rust --- instant success.

This solution gives in the right hands a Johnsons(does/did most of Purdeys/H&H stuff) type black within a few hours(big hint) not a month.
It really is good and great for helping you out of the sticky stuff.

There are gunsmiths who have analyzed this/similarly working rust bluing solution and use it all the time.
The more time you put in to it the better the result.

[TonyL]

Wow!

I've just had a good read of those instructions and it sounds very good.

One to have a go at one day when time finally allows to properly play with many more things airgunnery!

[T 20]

This solution gives in the right hands a Johnsons(does/did most of Purdeys/H&H stuff) type black within a few hours(big hint) not a month.
It really is good and great for helping you out of the sticky stuff.

There are gunsmiths who have analyzed this/similarly working rust bluing solution and use it all the time.
The more time you put in to it the better the result.

Ah, very interesting but two of the old guns I'm bluing at the moment have cylinders which are sealed to the breechblock with solder and I'd be loathe to go anywhere near them with a blowlamp.
Besides which I seem to have cracked the job by switching from acid fume bluing to rust bluing using Ammonium Chloride --- I managed three rustings today.

One of the items I'm bluing is the barrel weight for this rotary pistoned HW35 which should finish the front end off nicely.


All the best Mick

[arnie2b]

Ah, very interesting but two of the old guns I'm bluing at the moment have cylinders which are sealed to the breechblock with solder and I'd be loathe to go anywhere near them with a blowlamp.
Besides which I seem to have cracked the job by switching from acid fume bluing to rust bluing using Ammonium Chloride --- I managed three rustings today.

One of the items I'm bluing is the barrel weight for this rotary pistoned HW35 which should finish the front end off nicely.


All the best Mick

The difference between 60 and 240(iirc) degrees is quite substantial and it's very safe till you get to smoking stages of the solder then you don't have much time left.
You'd have to be a numpty to bugger that one up.
I use a laser IR thermometer to avoid that one.

[T 20]

You'd have to be a numpty to bugger that one up.

That'll be me then.

I could bugger anything up without even trying.

[T 20]

One of the items I'm bluing is the barrel weight for this rotary pistoned HW35 which should finish the front end off nicely.

Like so :-

image.jpg

[Bluefan]

Very nice Mick I likes it .

[TonyL]

Cop an eyeful of that!

Lovely, Mick, just lovely.