My stock. Craftsmen look away now

[SPILY]

Here's the stock from my Mklll bought new over 50 years ago.


Dropped by our son over 20 years ago. Bless!




Decided to make a start yesterday



By thunder it's very secure


Just got to choose the right glue now. Then loads of elbow grease!!

I would and have used PVA wood glue, its stronger than the wood itself, good luck.

[Airsporterman]

I would and have used PVA wood glue, its stronger than the wood itself, good luck.

Me too!
No metal screw. - Once set, I would have drilled it in line with your proposed screw and inserted a hardwood dowel also glued with PVA. Once set, filled and sanded, should be almost invisible repair if done well!

ASM

[steyrman]

Did a repair a few years back and used the adhesive to stick Kitchen work tops together the type where you spray one side and apply adhesive to the other you only get one chance when sticking them together i never used any screws/bolts just the adhesive it is still ok today and that was on a .243

[frontend loader]

LOL,its a Thunder bolt

[Papa g]

I would and have used PVA wood glue, its stronger than the wood itself, good luck.

Pva is strong but not entirely water proof, the stuff that claims to be "waterproof" has resin added to give it to give it better adhesion in damp conditions, cascamite on the other hand is a resin glue that comes in powder form & needs to be mixed with water, it is completely waterproof (timber can be completely submerged in water & the joint will not fail) which is why it's used in boat building, I believe it was also used on the construction of the mosquito fighter/bomber of ww2, so basically all I'm trying to say is it sticks like s..t to a blanket & is incredibly strong!
Regards G

[hermun]

with both cascamite and a thunder bolt. it is not going to move then!

good preparation and patience with the refinish, should make it stronger then it ever was.

personally I like oiled wood but hey! we all like what we like.

be nice to see it when finished.

all the best

[keith66]

Quick lesson on glues from an experienced boatbuilder who has used them all & seen failures in most of them! in order of strength & durability, PVA is ok for interior work but its not waterproof & not for things like gunstocks, There is a similar waterproof glue called Titebond 3 that is a lot stronger & just as easy to use.
Gorrila glue, or similar foaming PU glues are for quick & dirty work & do not have long term strength or durability.
Cascamite is a urea formaldehyde one of a family of glues developed for aircraft in WW2 (including the mosquito) Aerolite is a another that is very good. They are not recomended for underwater use & will start to degrade after 30 years or so.
Rescorcinol glues like Aerodux or Cascophen are still available & were also developed for aircraft use. They are still the most durable & waterproof glues going, they are not the easiest to use as they need very accurate mixing & are sensitive to temperature.
Epoxies are the strongest & most versatile, waterproof & easy to use. Main drawback is they have very low UV resistance so if exposed should be painted or varnished.

[Papa g]

Quick lesson on glues from an experienced boatbuilder who has used them all & seen failures in most of them! in order of strength & durability, PVA is ok for interior work but its not waterproof & not for things like gunstocks, There is a similar waterproof glue called Titebond 3 that is a lot stronger & just as easy to use.
Gorrila glue, or similar foaming PU glues are for quick & dirty work & do not have long term strength or durability.
Cascamite is a urea formaldehyde one of a family of glues developed for aircraft in WW2 (including the mosquito) Aerolite is a another that is very good. They are not recomended for underwater use & will start to degrade after 30 years or so.
Rescorcinol glues like Aerodux or Cascophen are still available & were also developed for aircraft use. They are still the most durable & waterproof glues going, they are not the easiest to use as they need very accurate mixing & are sensitive to temperature.
Epoxies are the strongest & most versatile, waterproof & easy to use. Main drawback is they have very low UV resistance so if exposed should be painted or varnished.

I bow to your specialist knowledge of glue suitability & stand corrected on cascamite for long term submersive use, but the point I was trying to put across is as you say pva is not suitable long term for gunstocking repairs, I agree with you on epoxy resin, but as the op has used cascamite I would like to reassure him that its more than up to the job,
Regards G

[deejayuu]

Really appreciate the input/interest from all. Thanks.
Here's the next stages




Solid as a rock and smooth as a baby's bottom. Bit of final fettling then on to finish. Undecided yet but would love to replicate original satin
oiled finish. Any tips appreciated.

[Airsporterman]

Unlike others on here, I don't usually submerge my rifles in water for any periods, (usually does nasty things to blued steel finishes too) I usually also finish them in either oil type finishes (usual and personally preferred method) or varnished, so I guess I will be sticking to PVA! It's served me well over 40 years!

ASM

[lensman57]

Quick lesson on glues from an experienced boatbuilder who has used them all & seen failures in most of them! in order of strength & durability, PVA is ok for interior work but its not waterproof & not for things like gunstocks, There is a similar waterproof glue called Titebond 3 that is a lot stronger & just as easy to use.
Gorrila glue, or similar foaming PU glues are for quick & dirty work & do not have long term strength or durability.
Cascamite is a urea formaldehyde one of a family of glues developed for aircraft in WW2 (including the mosquito) Aerolite is a another that is very good. They are not recomended for underwater use & will start to degrade after 30 years or so.
Rescorcinol glues like Aerodux or Cascophen are still available & were also developed for aircraft use. They are still the most durable & waterproof glues going, they are not the easiest to use as they need very accurate mixing & are sensitive to temperature.
Epoxies are the strongest & most versatile, waterproof & easy to use. Main drawback is they have very low UV resistance so if exposed should be painted or varnished.

A few years back when I was intending to build a wooden bench to support my Myford ML7, the old book by Thomas I believe, advised against using PVA to glue the bench together even though it would have all been bolted together as well. Apparently PVA is not stable in humid and low temps and would have caused the bench to deform and bend the lathes bed. It gave the name of the proper glue for the application which I can not remember and the book has also vanished.

A.G

[Airsporterman]

Looks like a nice bit of wood that!
I hope you drilled the correct size pilot hole before whacking that big bad boy bolt in or it will split again - I would have gone for a hardwood dowel glued in!
Advice - don't drop it again!

ASM

[deejayuu]

Don't know how this post got resurrected but still pleased with result. Checked it today.
By chance the little love that dropped it all those years ago is here over the weekend with his family.

[johnbaz]

I would and have used PVA wood glue, its stronger than the wood itself, good luck.

I'll second this- Nothing better for timber!


John

[johnbaz]

Hi

I bought a HW95 that had suffered the same fate, It had been glued together but with no reinforcement so I drilled a deep pilot hole then went over it partway with an 8mm drill to sink the head well down then drove a 2.5" phillips screw straight down! Gives me a bit more confidence to shoot it!

Pic 1


I refinished the stock too as it was a bit light coloured for my taste, It was quite blotchy too- It's one of the smoothest guns I have though!!

Pic 2

Pic 3

Pic 4


John