Weihrauch help/advise required (35's)

[landymick]

That saves on needing another trigger then but the new pistons aren’t cheap , along with a new or SH barrel you could probably buy a later model any way

The ops donor will have the old cocking arm so will probably click & possible galling . The kLS cylinder I agree would be better for a rebuild though.

Then he would really need new barrel shims & axis bolt , ideally a new barrel latch unless the old one is in good nick .

[T 20]

Thanks Mick, re the piston, exactly what items would I need and where to get them without having to go via RFD's? Will the existing cocking link work with it for instance?

Thanks

Steve

Hi Steve.

New Pistons come under the VCR act and are supposed to be purchased face to face from an RFD, but I'm told that if you send a piston to Chambers they can send you a new one in exchange --- I'm not sure how true this is ?

The existing cocking link will work with a newer cylinder and piston, the only change in roller bearing cocking links was the addition of an anti click hump on later versions --- it didn't work, they still went click when you cocked them.




All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

Hi Steve.

New Pistons come under the VCR act and are supposed to be purchased face to face from an RFD, but I'm told that if you send a piston to Chambers they can send you a new one in exchange --- I'm not sure how true this is ?

The existing cocking link will work with a newer cylinder and piston, the only change in roller bearing cocking links was the addition of an anti click hump on later versions --- it didn't work, they still went click when you cocked them.




All the best Mick

I'm probably having to use Chambers for a barrel anyway so a piston from them makes sense.

Steve

[T 20]

Further to my PM, Steve, here's why I don't recommend buying the leather to synthetic adaptor kit. :-


http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....46#post7719946




All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

Further to my PM, Steve, here's why I don't recommend buying the leather to synthetic adaptor kit. :-


http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....46#post7719946




All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

I had some time yesterday and parts had arrived from Chambers so I thought I'd put some time into this one again.

Two issues though, the new spring was far too long and would give huge preload?? I hear all the time about too much power, excessive recoil and heavy to cock so I reused the original as it seemed strong and was straight. I will cut the new one down eventually and form the cut end properly too but I wanted to get on.
Second issue put a halt to it though, don't you just want to swear when you think you've got all you need for a job and then find you haven't? No barrel joint shims!!

However I did at least assemble the Cylinder.
Also in my naivety I didn't realise the new barrel would be aftermarket (I should have really as with old cars and old watches that I also play with it's normal) and is lacking the Weihrauch logo stamped on the right side, not to worry it is a bitser after all.

So two projects on the go (BSA underlever double sear in collectables) and can't complete either.

https://imgur.com/gallery/dXq5oPo

Steve

[TonyL]

Also in my naivety I didn't realise the new barrel would be aftermarket (I should have really as with old cars and old watches that I also play with it's normal) and is lacking the Weihrauch logo stamped on the right side,
Steve

Having never had to buy a replacement barrel, I didn't know that this might be the case, either. However, considering that it would be such a small potential market, and maybe not viable for an aftermarket producer to enter, are you sure this is the case? Could it be that it is, indeed, a HW barrel, just that they don't stamp barrels up if they are for the spares market? And I ask this with absolutely zero knowledge or idea........

[stevegv8]

Having never had to buy a replacement barrel, I didn't know that this might be the case, either. However, considering that it would be such a small potential market, and maybe not viable for an aftermarket producer to enter, are you sure this is the case? Could it be that it is, indeed, a HW barrel, just that they don't stamp barrels up if they are for the spares market? And I ask this with absolutely zero knowledge or idea........

Not sure about A/M just assuming seeing as I'm used to so much of it on the other two subjects I mentioned.
I never gave it a thought until I looked it over, the left side has the normal markings so why leave their name off?
Makes no odds, I needed one anyway because re finishing the old one would have been just as costly no doubt plus I wanted a calibre change.
It's a made up gun now as I'm using this limited edition cylinder so I can live with it.
Out of interest I suppose I could ask Chambers, in fact I think I will mail Hamish and see.
I think I'm going to need a mint stock now as well to compliment the metalwork
Shims have arrived now but got cars to polish and fettle today & tomorrow.

[stevegv8]

I found time today to try and finish putting it together, can't imagine what I might have done wrong/if I done wrong but it's stiffer to cock than my 35E (longer barrel though so that might make the E feel easier) and also although it latches it kind of feels like only just, again not quite as with my 35E, feels like the notch in the rod could do with being another millimetre nearer the trigger unit.
I adjusted the trigger either side of how it started when it was in the old cylinder with the old piston but set it back to how it was before for now which feels nice.

It's got to bed in no doubt but I have loaded it up and given it a few good thumps too test if the sear would let off but no issues found.
I will cycle it a few dozen times and see how it goes.

The trigger guard isn't brass, I sand blasted the badly scratched black off and sprayed it gold hammerite seeing as there is gold lettering on the cylinder.

I put an old scope on for looks as I will scope it and leave the standard sights off (with a stock and trigger unit I just about have enough parts to resurrect the donor gun)!

Pretty sure I'll need to source a nicer stock next and might consider a silencer if anyone can suggest one that goes straight on with no modifications needed.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5VpjAcZ

[maximus]

Hi, if its only just latching and difficult to cock the spring could be becoming coil bound now as it looks like you have added a chambers top hat and guide. Might need a coil off the spring to resolve. Regards Max

[landymick]

Another thing to look at is the thickness of the guide base , often Chambers guides are too thick .

[stevegv8]

A little disappointing they didn't mention things like spring length etc considering it was a telephone order with some extended discussion.
He did mention when I said I was replacing the old leather washer type piston set up that he was glad I said so as he would need to machine an adjustment but I've no idea what that involved.
The new guide and top hat didn't seem to be tight at all but due to their end thickness the original spring must be compressed a little more than it used to be no doubt.
Again in my naivety I assumed I was ordering a standard replacement spring. I abandoned the new and stuck with the old as it needed at least 2 inches off (random guess) before trying then another coil, another coil etc etc.
Cutting, heating, forming, and grinding one coil at a time would get me down I'm afraid and I wanted to avoid that, I don't have a chrono either to see where it would be at each chop, just wanted a smooth action with safe power.
I could go back to the old guide and no top hat just to compare latch up as an experiment to help decide if the new ones are playing a part.
I suppose I could now chop the new one down to one coil length less than the old one as a start? Will have to think it through.

[stevegv8]

Ok so I was a bit miffed that when assembled it didn't feel at all positive latching up, needing a good snatch back to engage making me think it was a little short on cocking back far enough (having added a nylon spring guide was this an influence?). So it looked it like I'd need to re think what I'd done and maybe consider lopping a spring coil off in relation to some advice received above.

First though I wanted to see what the power was as a start point to measure changes if cutting the spring, so I got myself a chrono which was a new direction for me, never had or used one until now, I plink around with vintage after all.

Next was more initial disappointment as with some RWS Supermags power was around 8.5 ft-lb and yet the gun didn't feel lame.
Then I found I had mis typed the weight input as .6 grams when it was .53 but still concerned the power measured low I dug out some Premier hollowpoints at .51 grams noticing these were a little tighter to load, the figures were now way up with an average of 10.8
Then with Air arms diablo I have an average of 11.27 also latching up is getting a bit better too, so for now I'm going to continue letting it bed in and see what to do later on.

Also for a pellet test, my AA s400 which only has under 100 bar charged at the moment has over 1 ft-lb difference between the Rws supermags & the AA diablo's. So I could probably do with some further pellet trials because as an oldies collector/occasional plinker I've never worried too much about finding the ideal pellet per gun.

Thanks for the info and advice along the way.

[deejayuu]

Worth trying Exacts/Express

[TonyL]

Yes, definitely worth giving the Exact Express and RS a go. And, if the output is then a little too close for comfort, reducing preload.

Re the latching issue, if it were to not continue to resolve, check these four areas:-

The thickness of the spring guide flange.
Spring length.
Cocking arm not bent.

Trigger unit not "gunged" up.

Guessing that you did fit that new piston, so wear at the rear of the cocking slot shouldn't be a possible fifth area to check.