In a springer I have heard that the temperature generated in the TP is very high, if this is true then a delrin TP would not be suitable.
In a springer I have heard that the temperature generated in the TP is very high, if this is true then a delrin TP would not be suitable.
Given the dimensions Barry, the OP seems to be referring to a tp on a pcp, co2 rifle
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Its on a stalker rifle that I am re building, it has x2 o rings on the port top and bottom and the measurements are just a guess as its at home and I am at work currently. I found now the original .22 port size was 2.5mm so will try that first. the only thing is that its a .25 so bit unsure of size to go with for a 12flb rifle.
I have a delrin rod spare form another project that would be perfect for the port and might need a few making of differing sizes to get the power right.
If it works its going to be my 10 yard squirrel gun!
I would make the part out of metal myself. Brass, mild steel and aluminum are much easier to machine accurately as plastics tend to soften due to the heat produced by machining and a lot of plastics are too elastic and holes drilled in them are smaller than the drill.
FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at
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Okay, slightly off at a tangent, as it's not a springer that the OP is referring to, but, Barry, as Phil says above, Jim's been playing with acetal transfer ports on TXs. All good. And that silly high temperature is only generated for a miniscule amount of time meaning no ill effects with the synthetic TP.
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....well if you want to go with the advice of a materials eng ...you could go with exactly the same material.
If its not a bearing, which must always be a different, or harder material, going with same materials brings with it the same rates of exspansion/contraction...regardless of what conditions its being subjected to....thus if its a drive fit ....it will stay a drive fit...
So i would drive in a turned lump of solid brass and then simply drill the hole to the size you want.
It might even look like it was meant if you polished it front and back face....as if made from one piece.
Alternatively ill machine you one from solid one piece if wanted.
Thats a really good idea, i might see whats in the bits box and see if i can find a bit of brass and turn it down.
Thanks guys I might knock up a few delrin ones of differing size holes and see what happens and then once I know the size go all out in brass!
FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at