Case Oil

[loiner1965]

I used some bright red gel, I think Hodgdon's. There was a cartoon character in a coonskin hat on the front. I used 2 bottles in about 30 years regular reloading in .32 ACP, 9mm.P, .44 Mag, 7,62 NATO, .303 and .577 Snider.

I found you only needed to lube about 1 case in 3, and I preferred steel dies even though they might wear a little.

You very certainly do need different powders for rifle calibres from pistol. Don't load anything until you understand what that's about.

Don't want to scare the lad but I personally know of a ruger lbr in 44 mag blown up.....then his under lever in same calibre followed suit.....then another person blew his under lever up by forcing larger bullets into cases.....reloading is easy if you know what you are doing.....ask an experienced reloader to show you the ropes and ask on here if you are not sure.

[tacfoley]

Don't want to scare the lad but I personally know of a ruger lbr in 44 mag blown up.....then his under lever in same calibre followed suit.....then another person blew his under lever up by forcing larger bullets into cases.....reloading is easy if you know what you are doing.....ask an experienced reloader to show you the ropes and ask on here if you are not sure.

Hence my comment about finding a real live person mentor to start him out the right way.

Blow-ups are so very rare that whoever did it just has to be some kind of don't-give-a-sh*t dwong.

The loading data figures are all right there in front of you with the matching propellant.

Blowing up what is generally reckoned to be one of THE strongest action revolver on the planet really must have taken some tremendous effort at ignoring ALL the rules.

To the OP - start by learning the SIMPLE basic and reloading that easy straight-wall revolver cartridge - the .38 Spec. After you get confident that you know what you are doing with that, you can progress onto the more complicated rifle cartridge - and it is a LOT more complicated.

Remember that the figures in the loading data handbooks offer a MINIMUM load as well as a MAXIMUM load. Ignoring either figure is something only the terminally stupid would do.

These data are not a subject for discussion - they are the RULES by which you can safely make something that is going to go bang at 20,000 pounds a square inch right there in your hand, or right up against your face. Isn't it worth sticking to the books to do it safely?

tac

[Simon_S]

I love my Lee 38 carbide die. should make 308win carbide die

[1066]

I love my Lee 38 carbide die. should make 308win carbide die

Ahh! If only the .308 win was a straight walled case.

[Simon_S]

Don't no why that cannot make a bottle necked carbide die. Would think with all the tech could be done

[tacfoley]

Don't no why that cannot make a bottle necked carbide die. Would think with all the tech could be done

Let's see how you do it then....

The so-called straight case is actually very slightly tapered, and the carbide sizing die - also tapered inside - acts like a circular scraper, cleaning all the crud off as it takes in the case and reduces it to the factory size at the same time..

The neck of the die actually ends up near the head of the case. Show me how you can do that with a bottle-necked case and I'll be the first in line to buy it when you've made it.

tac

[MikB]

Don't no why that cannot make a bottle necked carbide die. Would think with all the tech could be done

Yes, of course it could, by making a sintered carbide bottleneck insert, internally grinding/polishing it and precision bonding it into the steel die body.

It would be a lot more expensive than a steel die or a carbide-collared straight case die.

It would also be vulnerable to incorrect setting of the expander, which in sizing a bottleneck case functions on withdrawal, not entry. Once you'd cracked one such carbide die, you'd most likely hesitate to spend out on another. That's probably why nobody (AFAIK ) makes one.

[1066]

Don't no why that cannot make a bottle necked carbide die. Would think with all the tech could be done

Carbide rifle dies can be made without too much trouble and actually not prohibitively expensive, the drawback is that you still need to lube your cases.

Carbide rifle dies really find a use in high volume situations where die wear becomes an issue.

On the other hand you could invent a new sort of die that works like a collet die but sizes the whole case, clamping it to size rather than forcing it through a smaller hole.

The Lee carbide pistol die sets coupled with a Lee turret press and a Lee auto disc measure was a combination that I found difficult to beat in the days when I was loading several hundred a week.

https://www.dillonprecision.com/dill...8_4_24498.html

[thibben]

'On the other hand you could invent a new sort of die that works like a collet die but sizes the whole case, clamping it to size rather than forcing it through a smaller hole.'

Sort of a 'big' version of the Innovative Tech belted magnum die then? : http://www.larrywillis.com/

T