pdf manual for ruger
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIR...er_oldarmy.pdf
only posting what i read and even the converted ones only recommend smokeless cowboy loads....personally i think its the best bp revolver out there and one would like to own.....heres another
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/arch.../t-273123.html
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
pdf manual for ruger
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIR...er_oldarmy.pdf
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
Just to complicate matters, I've now been offered a Pietta Remington 1858 with target sights in mint condition for £150.
i have the revolver and its dated 1992 i believe
great revolver but not in the same leauge as the ruger
if you are serious bp shooter them its the ruger everytime
if you only shoot twice a years etc then get the pietta.
a little tip about pietta 1858
ypu can buy all parts forthem including hammers / cylinder stops / trigger/sear and index arm nut the tooling was changed around 1995 so revolvers like mine parts need fettling.
i replaced all my parts but the cylinder lock stop will lock the gun up when fitted so i use the old part etc
kranks have offered to look at it for me but i need to stay there whilst they look at it,,,,,just one of them things with the early revolver
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
I would definitely stick with the Ruger for the previously stated reasons. In my experience anyway, Uberti make the best of the affordable Italian replicas with only the far more expensive Pedersoli Remington 1858 replica possibly providing something better. I have two Uberti Remington 1858 replicas and have been entirely satisfied with both, but If I were restricted to one muzzle loading revolver, it would be a Ruger Old Army.
Brian
Last edited by Abasmajor; 20-07-2020 at 08:48 PM.
I keep hearing that the Ruger is no longer made and parts are an issue.
In reality, is it likely to need parts and how hard would they be to get?
Can I buy parts from the US and have them shipped to the UK?
Could the parts that may need replacing be hand made in stainless steel (I have some metal working ability, lathe, milling machine etc).
If this gun is nice and solid at full cock (something I've been told to check), what are the chances of it being bad?
I do intend to shoot this arm at least once a month over an afternoon, so it will see regular shooting.
Thanks.
I have to disagree that they are bomb proof.
Someone at the club bought a ROA. The cylinder, when it is at full cock would not lock up tight, it could be moved about .020" in either direction of the barrel centreline.
It was either badly worn internally, or had been bodged up by someone. I did not look at the slots on the cylinder itself but I don;t think they would have been worn. It had no accuracy at all probably because the ball was being shaved if the cylinder moved to one side when it was fired.
All that glitters is not gold, as they say.
Anything you buy second hand needs to be checked thoroughly. It is too late once you have parted with your hard earned dosh.
Okay, lets just put this thing to bed and we can move onI am sorry Tac, I didn't know that you were a 'Mod' here and were given the job of keeping threads to a certain length.Let's be frank and open here about the ROA, and be done with it.
I'll do as you say and stop posting on this matter as instructed.
Sorry.
email...... stephenbarrow@ntlworld.com
I have been to the shop again to look, but due to a lack of knowledge I'll not be buying it.
I don't want to risk my money or slot on my certificate.
For those interested, it is £400.
I've noticed Henry K have 4 in stock from £400-£695, so can't be all that rare or cheap.