Tell 3 pistol disassembly- the back pin?

[dvd]

A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.

Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.

Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.

I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH

[45flint]

A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.

Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.

Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.

I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH

Thanks I actually thought of trying both those ideas. Will try the glue first as it seems the easiest and I think would work? Appreciate your thoughts added detail that will be helpful.

[DCL_dave]

If the pin is loose, would something like a strong neodymium magnet pull it out enough to get a hold of it?

[45flint]

If the pin is loose, would something like a strong neodymium magnet pull it out enough to get a hold of it?

Tried that one: no go

[ccdjg]

You could try applying heat to the metal around the pin first , say with a soldering iron, to help break the bond between the pin and frame.
Incidentally, the little screw on top of the cylinder that is accessed through the cocking link is the sear adjusting screw.

[ggggr]

I haven't got a clue what I'm talking about with these pistols BUT looking at the pic of one stripped here
https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery....tol/#post-3316
I would assume that the pin can only go through the end cap and be located in that back block/ trigger block? If so , then i would suspect that if you canot get the pin loose, that you would not need to drill it very deep for it to be below the end cap (the cap thickness). Then with the cap removed you could drill the rest out of the block?
A really good welder like Edbear could probably built up the pin with weld enough for you to be able to grips it with something (or weld a nut on).
I have seen early Diana 25 pistons where they have a pin through the side of the piston, that pushes against the piston washer screw---And these need drilling out to remove the screw.

[45flint]

Probably a lesson in trying the easiest things first. Both my issues with my Tells were solved with lubrication without taking apart the guns. I put a lot of lubricant into the cocking mechanism in the rear of the gun and keep working it, the one gun now cocks and holds. The low powered one is now at 260 FPS, I’m assuming the oil has swelled some dry leather seals. Worry about the pins another day which is fine with me.