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Thread: Excellent piece on stock finishing

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bath, innit?
    Posts
    6,700
    Beech rarely looks good after staining. I've tried a couple of times with wood dye and alkanet, and they both had to be sanded back to natural.
    This was my experience too: impossible to get an even colour.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    okehampton
    Posts
    1,590
    Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' and give it some attention.

    Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood

    Thanks
    Paul

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    liverpool
    Posts
    107

    Smile dry walnut stock

    Quote Originally Posted by pgunning1 View Post
    Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' and give it some attention.

    Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood

    Thanks
    Paul
    raw linseed oil will make your walnut stock look fantastic and is half the price of danish oil , unless your stock is damaged do not sand it unless its with the finest glass paper you can get (400 grit) . walnut goes quite dark with a purple tinge when sanded.

    melling

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Hebburn
    Posts
    9

    stock advice

    Quote Originally Posted by kash2001 View Post
    Are there any good wood nourishers from the DIY's for walnut as my TDR stock is looking a bit 'dry', it may sound strange but it does look dry or dehydrated i guess, anyway its time to 'feel the love' and give it some attention.

    Any advice on products that can nourish this wood would be great and if there are any applying tricks, ie. sanding first or apply direct. as I'm a complete novice with wood

    Thanks
    Paul
    visit your local college and ask the woodwork department for advice, its something different and they will love it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    sheffield
    Posts
    3

    Alan 972

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry cornelius View Post
    this was my experience too: Impossible to get an even colour.
    thanks for that you have saved me alot of time cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    13
    Thank you very much!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Hemel Hempstead
    Posts
    109
    I amazes me some of the crap people will put on a poor piece of wood in name of finishing.

    Beech is an absolute doddle to stain you just need to know what your doing and do it right. Companys havent spent millions developing decent woodstain for people to still be using rubbish like alknet, it was a fantastic woodstain 100years ago now its a throwback.

    You can buy amazing quality woodstain that is lightfast (holds its color over time in sunlight) easy to apply and relatively cheap to purchase. You can buy brilliant wood stains from companys like Liebron, Morrells, even Colron is ok at a fix.

    Now if you use spirit based stain (based on meths) all you need to do is wipe the Beech stock over with a wet coat of meths this will level the absortion rate on the timber out as the bits that absorb more meths will dilute the stain more and the bits that absorb the meths less will dilute the stain less giving an even appearance.

    Next you saturation coat the wood that mean fast wet coats (we normally spray it if we can) meaning you must start with a much lighter colored stain then the final color your trying to achieve if not your stain will make the wood darker than you want it. If you cant spray the stain wipe it on wet with kitchen roll keeping a wet edge that means putting lots on and keep putting it on till the wood will accept no more it helps to have the stock in a cradle so you dont put finger prints all over it.

    Now as the stain drys some stain will leech back out of the woods pores, just wipe this off with a clean sheet of kitchen paper eventually you will have a evenly color matt piece of Beech. Allow this to dry for a day or so then your ready to oil or laquer or whatever.

    No need for teabags/bootpolish/eye of newt.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    christchurch
    Posts
    40

    Refinsh Beech stock

    Quote Originally Posted by Knight Guitars View Post
    I amazes me some of the crap people will put on a poor piece of wood in name of finishing.

    Beech is an absolute doddle to stain you just need to know what your doing and do it right. Companys havent spent millions developing decent woodstain for people to still be using rubbish like alknet, it was a fantastic woodstain 100years ago now its a throwback.

    You can buy amazing quality woodstain that is lightfast (holds its color over time in sunlight) easy to apply and relatively cheap to purchase. You can buy brilliant wood stains from companys like Liebron, Morrells, even Colron is ok at a fix.

    Now if you use spirit based stain (based on meths) all you need to do is wipe the Beech stock over with a wet coat of meths this will level the absortion rate on the timber out as the bits that absorb more meths will dilute the stain more and the bits that absorb the meths less will dilute the stain less giving an even appearance.

    Next you saturation coat the wood that mean fast wet coats (we normally spray it if we can) meaning you must start with a much lighter colored stain then the final color your trying to achieve if not your stain will make the wood darker than you want it. If you cant spray the stain wipe it on wet with kitchen roll keeping a wet edge that means putting lots on and keep putting it on till the wood will accept no more it helps to have the stock in a cradle so you dont put finger prints all over it.

    Now as the stain drys some stain will leech back out of the woods pores, just wipe this off with a clean sheet of kitchen paper eventually you will have a evenly color matt piece of Beech. Allow this to dry for a day or so then your ready to oil or laquer or whatever.

    No need for teabags/bootpolish/eye of newt.....
    Do I need to Nitromors all old finish off ,and then sand it first till all same colour what about pre stain conditioner any advice welcomed!!

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