Discocom,
It might be worth sending a PM to Mr. Amatruda (user-name Lawrie Amatruda, here on 'BBS).
Have fun & a good weekend
Best regards
Russ
If you overfill it can cause problems.
yep spot on, some of the smaller ones where I was unable to get Polyurethane I used silicon as well which worked fine, I did also make a new valve seal from nylon, that was 3 years ago and the pistol is still all good, I sold it to a friend and he still uses it on a regular basis. Really easy to strip and with the age of them a seal kit would be well worth doing, Protek may actually have a full kit in stock which will save you searching for the sizes.
If you have a spare cylinder try that also as it is possible it is the cylinder that has the fault not the pistol, again this will most likely be no more than a strip/clean and seal, there really isn't that much to go very wrong on them.
Nige
Steyr LP10, Steyr LP5,
Vintage Collection - Walther LP53, HW77k Venom, BSF S20 Match, Original 35, ASI Target plus lots more
Make sure that you have put the cylinder on tightly enough. If you just screw it on till the valve opens and 'grabs' the cylinder,it will not maintain pressure and give you low power shots. Don't over tighten, but it needs to be nipped up hand tight.
If you need to reseal and can do it yourself try here:http://www.altecweb.com/home.asp?cat=RangeB05
Many thanks for all the advice. I wonder if the cylinder was slightly overfilled, which caused the problem as working fine now.
I have a second cylinder but need to replace the seal as old one was hard and came out in bits.
Does the seal need to be a green one, as my understanding is that it has to be resistant to co2?
Yes you need to use a seal of the correct material. I got mine from Protek supplies
FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at
The colour's not important, Seals are often coloured for the industry they are used in (ie green/blue are often used in the food trade) you will need either polyurethane or Silicon for CO2, If the seal is to be moved on a regular basis (ie Cylinder to pistol seal) you will need Polyurethane as silicon will be too soft. Protek may have some but failing that Kent Bearings and Seals in Rochester or Seal Force, You'll get a pack of 10 for about the same price as one from Walther, Brand/colour isn't important at all, an O ring is an O ring as long as it's the correct material & size.
Steyr LP10, Steyr LP5,
Vintage Collection - Walther LP53, HW77k Venom, BSF S20 Match, Original 35, ASI Target plus lots more
it is all very well to say go to a o ring stockist but what size are the correct ones. Size is perhaps the most important thing
FWB P8X,Hammerli AP40, Steyr LP1 Walther LPM-1, CPM-1, CP1, CP2, LP3, LP53, LP300, LP400, Terrus, Pardini P10, FX Wildcat .177, HW100 .22, AA S410 .22, BSA R10 MK2 .177, , HW77, 80, 90 BB AK47, S&W 586 and more blow back Co2 BBs than you can shake a stick at
[QUOTE=Discocom;7412860]Many thanks for all the advice. I wonder if the cylinder was slightly overfilled, which caused the problem as working fine now.
Sorry I was a bit terse there.
An overfill can give the hammer too much pressure to overcome causing failure to fire.
Check the weight of the cylinder,usually indicated on the side.
On my FWB you can let a bit of co2 out if you have overfilled.
I have owned several CP1, CP2 and CP3 pistols and have also had a mystery leak now and again that has sealed itself too.
This usually followed a period of non-use and is one of the reasons why I always try to exercise all of my pistols and rifles as often as possible - leaving them unused does not do them any good at all!
Rossendale Target Shooting Club. Every Tuesday and Thursday evening 7 - 10pm.