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Thread: Airsporter- the knowledge please

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  1. #1
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    No problem fitting scope rails to these old collectables if they do not have them. I usually make curved ones from pipe, but was lazy with this last one so I got it off the bay for just over 6 quid. Glue them on with Tiger Seal polyurethane glue which is very tough but can be removed later if required.

    Baz





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  2. #2
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    In no particular order I have the following, 1965 Series 2 in .22, Series 1 Airsporter S in.22x2, Airsporter Stutzen Carbine again in .22 and all are a delight, enjoy.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    No problem fitting scope rails to these old collectables if they do not have them. I usually make curved ones from pipe, but was lazy with this last one so I got it off the bay for just over 6 quid. Glue them on with Tiger Seal polyurethane glue which is very tough but can be removed later if required.

    Baz





    That's an interesting concept - you can get the alloy scope ramps from China pretty cheaply . I have a project Mk1 in my head that would incorporate a new self made walnut stock, (elongated like a deerstalking rifle style) and a number of other nice 'mods' to bring it kicking and screaming into the modern world.
    Do you reckon this Tiger seal glue would do the business then? (I don't fancy drilling and tapping the top of the cylinder)

    ASM
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  4. #4
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    Dont forget the later Mk2 models had full length scope rails and auto opening taps(I have two)

    I have most Mk's of the Airsporter and agree with most of the above, apart from I must be the only Airsporter nut that does not like the full length stock on the stutzen . variants. I do love the S models almost as much as the Mk1.

    RB2 is the one if you really do want to hunt with one, but I would rather use a PCP or Pro sport to hunt. Sorry but its true. The truth is that the tap loader is not the best for assuring accuracy, but they are a joy to shoot.

    PS. My Dads Mk1 was bought by him new, and was the first gun that I ever fired, and is also the gun that will never be sold.
    Last edited by DEAN C.; 16-05-2015 at 02:44 PM.
    BASC

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airsporterman View Post
    That's an interesting concept - you can get the alloy scope ramps from China pretty cheaply . I have a project Mk1 in my head that would incorporate a new self made walnut stock, (elongated like a deerstalking rifle style) and a number of other nice 'mods' to bring it kicking and screaming into the modern world.
    Do you reckon this Tiger seal glue would do the business then? (I don't fancy drilling and tapping the top of the cylinder)

    ASM
    The rail I got from gazelleoutdoors in China is steel. Only use Tiger Seal on metal surfaces if you want to remove the glue later. You can use it on any surface such as wood and plastic if you want a permanent fixture as it sticks like heck. I put my wing mirror back on with it after it was smashed off my car, also the large mud flaps on my old van.It adheres in a couple of hours but allow 24 hours for a solid fix.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    The rail I got from gazelleoutdoors in China is steel. Only use Tiger Seal on metal surfaces if you want to remove the glue later. You can use it on any surface such as wood and plastic if you want a permanent fixture as it sticks like heck. I put my wing mirror back on with it after it was smashed off my car, also the large mud flaps on my old van.It adheres in a couple of hours but allow 24 hours for a solid fix.

    Baz
    Tiger seal or Sikoflex (same stuff) is what panels are fitted to vehicles with, and also what windscreens are bonded in with.

    Different brands sometimes call it panel adhesive if you buy it from an automotive supplier. It sets into what is basically solid synthetic rubber. You will have to cut it off to remove it with a wire or stanley blade, as I dont know any other way of removing it.

    I am useless over 20 yards on open sights so a rail conversion would be my way forward to use on a regular basis, but only if the gun didnt have any etching left. Both of my Mk 2's have modern mounts and nice older glossy scopes on. I'm far too used to shooting 10x mag for competitions now to manage open sights for anything other than plinking. My Mk1's will stay original though but good luck if you do convert and I would be interested to see the results..
    BASC

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