Tell 3 pistol disassembly- the back pin?

[ccdjg]

I have only disassembled three of these but in each case the pin came out fairly easily. It seems to have been made to be a loose fit and once out didn't need much pushing back. Tapping and turning the cap slightly backwards and forwards allowed enough of it to emerge so that you could pull itout with pliers. Of course I could have been just lucky. Not a great design feature though whichever way you look at it.

[45flint]

I have only disassembled three of these but in each case the pin came out fairly easily. It seems to have been made to be a loose fit and once out didn't need much pushing back. Tapping and turning the cap slightly backwards and forwards allowed enough of it to emerge so that you could pull itout with pliers. Of course I could have been just lucky. Not a great design feature though whichever way you look at it.

That’s what I thought I read before. I’ve got three now and the boxed one seems like that would possibly happen easily, but it’s fine and no reason to mess with it. The other two I would like to take apart, one is low on power and the other will not stay cocked? But those two aren’t wanting to fall out, but just started, just wanted to know I was on the right track, appears I am. Thanks.

I think I may have to give the nod to Hugo Schmeisser for design with the 28, no pins! Just screw it off. Foss’s design is pretty complex it seems to me?. The way it cocks then part of the mechanism moved back as you pull up the barrel?

[45flint]

Working the lubricant into the mechanism seems to be helping the cocking issue on the second one from the auction. I’m sure it hasn’t seen oil in a while? Low power is on my old one with the cracked grip, not sure that’s critical at this point? But on both of these, that pin doesn’t move at all?

[Lawrie Amatruda]

Without taking my one apart again, I think I rembember that there is a small slotted screw you need to remove, which is accessed through a small hole on top of the cocking linkage and just forward of the cap at the back, I don’t remember having to remove that pin that has been discussed, be aware that the grip is very fragile, I think it could be made of Bakelite, which over the years degrades. The one you have that shoots weakly, probably has a broken flat section piston spring, I repaired one a few years ago with the same problem, but was lucky at that time I had contact with a guy in Sweden who sent me one,I think his name was Bo Fred I have lost contact with him now.
Cheers, Lawrie.

I have had second thoughts about that little screw, If I remember, it is a trigger adjustment screw, but I still don’t remember having to remove the pin at the rear to remove the plug.

[45flint]

Without taking my one apart again, I think I rembember that there is a small slotted screw you need to remove, which is accessed through a small hole on top of the cocking linkage and just forward of the cap at the back, I don’t remember having to remove that pin that has been discussed, be aware that the grip is very fragile, I think it could be made of Bakelite, which over the years degrades. The one you have that shoots weakly, probably has a broken flat section piston spring, I repaired one a few years ago with the same problem, but was lucky at that time I had contact with a guy in Sweden who sent me one,I think his name was Bo Fred I have lost contact with him now.
Cheers, Lawrie.

I have had second thoughts about that little screw, If I remember, it is a trigger adjustment screw, but I still don’t remember having to remove the pin at the rear to remove the plug.

You may not remember because some of these guns no longer have the pin? I have seen some like that when we see pics of different serial numbers.

[dvd]

A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.

Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.

Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.

I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH

[45flint]

A possible initial alternative to drilling the pin out is to rough up the face of the pin with some abrasive paper, put a dab of superglue and stick a small stub of metal of the same diameter as the pin. Try and make it just long enough to get a grip on it with pliers and when set, pull on it without any sideways movement so as not to shear the stub till enough of the original pin is visible to allow a good grip directly on it. Penetrating oil and heating the action with a hair dryer may be enough to expand and lubricate the hole easing the extraction process.

Alternatively, you may have enough room to accurately drill a small hole in the pin and screw in a screw such as found on spectacle frames. It may well start to turn of its own accord as you drill which is a good sign that it will possibly come out by tapping and then let gravity and inertia do the work.

Failing that, I would drill it out completely without touching the action. A pin is just a pin and I do not think it will greatly affect the value of the piece if it is replaced.
The replacement pin would be partially threaded internally to facilitate future extraction should need be.

I do not know what to think about the design when pins like these are used and one has to resort to drilling to remove them.
But I certainly don't shy away from improving something if I can without ruining the uniqueness of the basic design.
HTH

Thanks I actually thought of trying both those ideas. Will try the glue first as it seems the easiest and I think would work? Appreciate your thoughts added detail that will be helpful.